|
|
|
|
|
Ok So, My brother has a golf. And that golf has some wheels that he wants to get rid of, except some clever chum(p) has put the locking wheel bolt in with the force of ten million suns and no copper grease... So the locking wheel pattern started to shear off the locking wheel nut key. Then when they tried a locking wheel nut extractor key, it just sheared more off. Then when they tried welding a bar on it that just snapped off. So they welded a bolt on it to see if they could get some purchase on that. And it broke. So they welded a nut on and filled the centre with weld. And that rounded off. So If anyone has any idea... anything at all (short of dynamite or a thermite rod) please, please, please could you let me know so i can tell him. I'd appreciate a lot.  p.s. we have to save the wheel.  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Die grinder and remove whats left of the head of the bolt, you could probably do it with some careful drilling as well. Alternatively, drive it passed a load of nuns and kittens stood at a bus stop with just that one bolt holding the wheel on, it will be guranteed to sheer to precisely that moment |
| |
|
|
grumpy
Part of things
Posts: 557
|
|
|
|
|
Am i right in thinking i heard years ago of people doing it a dodgy way by taking all the other bolts out and getting it to shear off by driving the car off a kerb or something . I might be talking out of backside but i remember something like that ? Anyone else ?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
try welding another nut on there!
unlikely you will be able to drill it successfully due to what happens to metal when you weld it, it becomes very hard!
bang the other bolts as tight as you date, might help too.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I get most of those undone by hammering a very tight fitting socket over the nut.
|
| |
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Can you pop the centre out of the wheel so the hub nut can be undone ? If so what about then removing the wheel / hub complete so it can be tackled "on the bench". Might then also be easier to drill out from behind.
Paul h
|
| |
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
wheely wheely stuck boltstealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
|
|
|
|
I'd go for driving the car backwards and forwards with just the one stud in. Should crack and unwind rather than shear.
|
| |
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
wheely wheely stuck boltChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
|
|
|
I'd be tempted to drive with the other nuts on loosely in the hope that the nut will shear. My friend had this issue and ended up binning the wheel (welding a nut did nothing, neither did sockets hammered onto it, locking nut removers (removed three of the locking nuts but the last one refused etc.)  . It was possibly a little extreme! I can see why my tyre fitter was saying not to bother with locking wheel nuts. He even didn't have any on his Evo when it had a set or pricey Rays wheels on it! Yet I know of some people who have two or three on per wheel... I guess another method is to tighten the nuts correctly in the first place. |
| |
|
|
speedy88
Club Retro Rides Member
"Nice Cortina mate"
Posts: 2,279
Club RR Member Number: 118
|
wheely wheely stuck boltspeedy88
@speedy88
Club Retro Rides Member 118
|
|
|
|
This happened to me (it was actually a rounded off wheel nut but same thing applies).
The way I managed it was taking the caliper off from the inside of the wheel, undoing the hub nut and taking the whole hub/disc assembly off. I was then able to destroy the hub getting the wheel off from the rear end. New hub from a scrappy and job was jobbed. See if this might be an option for you?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bigger nut & more amps  And then a rattle gun driven with a lot of pressure! |
| |
|
|
|
|
smurf
Part of things
Posts: 829 
|
|
|
|
|
Can you bang an old socket over it, then weld through the opening
I've sacrificed a socket like that before and it worked a treat for me
|
| |
Laser cutting and cnc punching (up to 3mm stainless and ali, up to 6mm mild steel)
Mail me a dxf file and i'll get you a price
Metal folding and custom fabrication service also available
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Depending on the wheel design and if the wheel needs to be save, I've found an air chisel to get the job done when all else has failed in the past.
|
| |
Its not broken, its resting!
Max signature image height: 80px
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FELLAS!! Thankyou for the many and various replies! I truly appreciate all your suggestions! Die grinder and remove whats left of the head of the bolt, you could probably do it with some careful drilling as well. Alternatively, drive it passed a load of nuns and kittens stood at a bus stop with just that one bolt holding the wheel on, it will be guranteed to sheer to precisely that moment This is looking to be the way i think. :/ The drilling, not the nuns.... although we do have weirdly bad luck, so we'd probably hit like the nuns tea party for disabled and deaf children which is being supervised by the judge dredd or something. Am i right in thinking i heard years ago of people doing it a dodgy way by taking all the other bolts out and getting it to shear off by driving the car off a kerb or something . I might be talking out of backside but i remember something like that ? Anyone else ? If it was my car, I'd be on it. But then I wouldn't be trying to save my wheels lol. I don't think my brother'd like this idea too much. Thankyou though. I'll retain for future.  try welding another nut on there! unlikely you will be able to drill it successfully due to what happens to metal when you weld it, it becomes very hard! bang the other bolts as tight as you date, might help too. They've tried a bolt and a couple of nuts already. :/ That last part is well worth a shot i think. But due to the knackered state of the locking nut now, we'll have to combine it with something else..... before we have to drill it. God I hope this one works. I get most of those undone by hammering a very tight fitting socket over the nut. Can you pop the centre out of the wheel so the hub nut can be undone ? If so what about then removing the wheel / hub complete so it can be tackled "on the bench". Might then also be easier to drill out from behind. Paul h This happened to me (it was actually a rounded off wheel nut but same thing applies). The way I managed it was taking the caliper off from the inside of the wheel, undoing the hub nut and taking the whole hub/disc assembly off. I was then able to destroy the hub getting the wheel off from the rear end. New hub from a scrappy and job was jobbed. See if this might be an option for you? carat36, Paul H and speedy88... I'm loving the suggestions but these have been tried and alas, have failed. (no access to the hub, brothers pooey sockets too soft to do the job) Taking it off via the hub was actually my first idea but we cannae get to the curse word. I'd go for driving the car backwards and forwards with just the one stud in. Should crack and unwind rather than shear. This is a gudden. I'll get him to try this first off i think. I'd be tempted to drive with the other nuts on loosely in the hope that the nut will shear. My friend had this issue and ended up binning the wheel (welding a nut did nothing, neither did sockets hammered onto it, locking nut removers (removed three of the locking nuts but the last one refused etc.) . It was possibly a little extreme! But hopefully we can save the wheel!! Bigger nut & more amps And then a rattle gun driven with a lot of pressure! We're currently searching for someone local to arrive with a bigger welder... their rare at my bro's budget so we need to be as cheap (spelt F R E E) as possible lol ....... Can you bang an old socket over it, then weld through the opening I've sacrificed a socket like that before and it worked a treat for me Hahah beat you too it but it destroyed the socket and he's only got a limited supply... i.e. that one. The rest don't really fit now. Depending on the wheel design and if the wheel needs to be save, I've found an air chisel to get the job done when all else has failed in the past. Believe me, if he wasn't saving the wheel he would've cut the thing off by now. Thankyou all immensely for all your input. I'm gunna call him now and see what he think. Then imma go play frisbee. A lovely and tranquil evening to you all!! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I know exactly what you meam. It's been tried (i was absent) but I'm told it just started to break pieces of the bolt head (which is like a sort of star kinda shape locking wheel bolt). Thanks though! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
if an irwin nut grip wont get it off, then your not going to get it off but putting anything over it. if you have managed to get a welder to it but the welds have snapped then you need a more powerful welder, failing that its drilling.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks damageandy, that's what i was thinking, I just wanted to see if there were any other methods that the many and various minds of retrorides might come up with. I think the welder is doing it today or possibly tomorrow now. Thanks again to everyone for suggesting things. I really appreciate it. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cobalt drill bit to get a 4mm pilot hole in and then up in 2or 3 mm steps until you get to 13mm (assuming they are 12mm thread) - at which point the bolt head will come off allowing you to remove the wheel. You'll probably find what's left of the bolt is quite loose.
The pilot hole has to be close to dead centre to avoid damaging the wheel. Use an old socket or something to help centre it.
This worked on mine and it took about 2hrs. Access to a grinder to sharpen the drills helps.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2014 17:30:05 GMT
|
Cobalt drill bit to get a 4mm pilot hole in and then up in 2or 3 mm steps until you get to 13mm (assuming they are 12mm thread) - at which point the bolt head will come off allowing you to remove the wheel. You'll probably find what's left of the bolt is quite loose. The pilot hole has to be close to dead centre to avoid damaging the wheel. Use an old socket or something to help centre it. This worked on mine and it took about 2hrs. Access to a grinder to sharpen the drills helps. Liking the idea of using a socket as a centre guide! They had a bad day with the car the other day so I'll tell him this in a few days. (he's very angry young man at the moment) Thankyou hfstuart |
| |
|
|
|
|
. It was possibly a little extreme!
And then a rattle gun driven with a lot of pressure! 
