Auto 'box slow to take up drive.

[Del]

I've noticed that when the engine is cold, the 'box in my Granada can take half-a-second or so to take up drive. It's especially noticeable if sitting in Neutral at a junction, and you then select Drive. It takes a little while then jumps forward, there's no 'creep' that you normally get. It only seems to happen when cold, once it's warm it's fine.
The idle has been a little lumpy recently too, with it sometimes dieing when the engine catches. I have some new HT leads ready to fit (it's just been serviced so I know the plugs are good) but I don't think the 'box issue is related.
Any ideas? And is it expensive?

[dodgerover]

When was the last time the autobox had a fluid and filter change? Start with that it can make a big difference, you may need to do it twice, there are also lots of additives you can put into old school auto boxes but start with the basics first.

[Rob M]

Sounds very much like ( I'm 99% certain) the autobox is low on oil.
Have you had the engine running up to temperature then gone through the gears on the auto box a few times BEFORE checking the ATF fluid level?
I'm guessing you have a C3 box? If its the A4LD, again the engine has to be run up to temperature then check the oil level with the engine running.

[Del]

Thanks fellas, simple enough to check first off!

[fred]

Like the above - Hopefully sort it out

[Del]

Sorry for the bump, but...
I've just changed jobs and there happens to be a Ford dealer around the corner. As it happens, the Granada is due for a service, so I have duly booked it in, and asked them for a price to change the fluid and filter in the gearbox (because I've still not got around to it ).
They've come back and said the 'box is sealed and they wouldn't do that unless they needed to drop the 'box out for some reason.
But an independent place said they could do it quite easily (which is who I will be taking it to).
Is the dealer talking cobblers, or can they just not be bothered?

[composimmonite]

Probably no drain plug on gearbox "sump" hence being classed as "sealed for life". Independent will simply remove sump to drain oil. My Smart Fortwo engine is exactly the same - no drain plug as you suck the old oil out through dipstick tube - but aftermarket sumps with proper plug available.
Personally I'd avoid main agent on an elderly car every time and go to an independent. Most main agents will simply be "fitters" ie if a fault just fit new parts until things work whereas an independent will be a proper "find the fault and repair" mechanic.

[colnerov]

Hi, there has been many a g/box ruined because manufacturers had adopted this sealed for life policy. Not just Fords but others as well. Yes get independent to do an oil and filter change the oil doesn't last forever, it doesn't in the engine so why should it in the g/box.

Colin

[Ryannn]

The manual box on my Volvo 480 was "sealed for life", I found it was hard to get into gear when cold and fine once warmed up. Changed the gearbox oil and I never had a problem again. Several owners also did the same!

[igor]

I've always taken my automatic cars to an automatic transmission specialist for repairs and servicing to the trans as that sort of thing is outside the usual range of operations for my local mechanic. Often see some very interesting old cars in his workshop too.
Agree that the franchise dealer is not always the best option with an old car unless you know exactly what it needs and can tell them so. That said old doesn't necessarily mean the same thing here as it does in the UK as we don't salt the roads so our cars can be expected to last a lot longer.

[mk2cossie]

As above, check the level when warm and having gone through the entire selector range 2 or 3 times.

Also, you shouldnt be selecting neutral at junctions, as the oil pump in the A4LDe box in your Granada is driven off the input shaft. Nuetral means no pump and no oilflow in the box

[Del]

Oct 22, 2015 17:00:33 GMT mk2cossie said:

As above, check the level when warm and having gone through the entire selector range 2 or 3 times.

Also, you shouldnt be selecting neutral at junctions, as the oil pump in the A4LDe box in your Granada is driven off the input shaft. Nuetral means no pump and no oilflow in the box

Really? That seems a bit of a strange design flaw. I mean, if I were in a traffic jam, I'd sit in Neutral, rather than in Drive with my foot on the brake.

[mk2cossie]

Oct 23, 2015 9:52:39 GMT Del said:

Oct 22, 2015 17:00:33 GMT mk2cossie said:

As above, check the level when warm and having gone through the entire selector range 2 or 3 times.

Also, you shouldnt be selecting neutral at junctions, as the oil pump in the A4LDe box in your Granada is driven off the input shaft. Nuetral means no pump and no oilflow in the box

Really? That seems a bit of a strange design flaw. I mean, if I were in a traffic jam, I'd sit in Neutral, rather than in Drive with my foot on the brake.

You shouldnt be sitting in traffic with the foot brake on, think of the nuns and kittens

I know what you mean though, does seem a bit of a daft design flaw

[ChasR]

Oct 23, 2015 12:57:59 GMT mk2cossie said:

Oct 23, 2015 9:52:39 GMT Del said:

Really? That seems a bit of a strange design flaw. I mean, if I were in a traffic jam, I'd sit in Neutral, rather than in Drive with my foot on the brake.

You shouldnt be sitting in traffic with the foot brake on, think of the nuns and kittens

I know what you mean though, does seem a bit of a daft design flaw

Surely on an auto the input shaft is always driven due to the nature of how a torque converter works? Of course I could be missing something!

[colnerov]

Hi, the torque converter where it goes into the g/box has a sleeve arrangement this drives the oil pump in the box which pumps oil into the converter itself. This is the driving medium to allow the outer shell of the converter to drive the impeller within which is connected to the input shaft. On tickover the oil provides the 'slip' between the engine and the stationary gearbox, when you pick the revs up to pull away the centrifugal force makes the oil act as a solid which drives the impeller and input shaft. When the box gets a bit of age to it the pump becomes a bit weak and this is why there is a bit of a delay, It won't fail immediately but just needs a bit of consideration. As said having it in neutral, putting it in gear then prodding the throttle, it can take a second or two to pull away.

Colin

[ChasR]

Oct 23, 2015 12:57:59 GMT mk2cossie said:

Oct 23, 2015 9:52:39 GMT Del said:

Really? That seems a bit of a strange design flaw. I mean, if I were in a traffic jam, I'd sit in Neutral, rather than in Drive with my foot on the brake.

You shouldnt be sitting in traffic with the foot brake on, think of the nuns and kittens

I know what you mean though, does seem a bit of a daft design flaw

It could be worse, you could rev the tits off a car with a ZF 4HP22 that has not seen a rebuild. They tend to burn out their clutch packs in this condition and even have a testing procedure come MOT time. Don't ask me how I know (or rather, how I found out when I came to collect a car of mine...).

[VIP]

It is best practise with autoboxes to remain in drive with the handbrake on when stopped at junctions/in traffic.

[accord83]

Oct 24, 2015 18:39:25 GMT VIP said:

It is best practise with autoboxes to remain in drive with the handbrake on when stopped at junctions/in traffic.

Unless it's a front driving VAG DSG, when it will try and set off dragging its like a dog with worms, and become an uphappy DSG rapidly.

[VIP]

Ugh, I only identify with autoboxes feeding the rear wheels. Never understood why anyone would want a fwd auto car, autos are for big luxury saloons, not family hatchbacks.

[Del]

This is all new to me! I've always used the 'handbrake and Neutral' mantra that was drummed into me when I learned on an manual.
Sitting in Drive with the handbrake on seems completely counter-intuitive to me, as I'd be worried about strain on the brakes.