andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,162
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Aug 28, 2014 17:41:24 GMT
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Trying to remove the crank pulley on a BMW engine. Engine is still in the car and I don't have access to air/impact tools! Of course, it won't budge, so any helpful hints? See HERE for why it must be removed!
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Aug 28, 2014 18:16:17 GMT
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,162
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Aug 28, 2014 19:48:19 GMT
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Good God!
May need some brave pills first.....but thanks for the video
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2014 19:48:45 GMT by andyborris
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Aug 28, 2014 20:47:01 GMT
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Well I have used this method three times now all successfully once on a tdi Carlton and twice two mercs a v8 380 and a diesel 190.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,162
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Aug 28, 2014 21:49:32 GMT
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I'll swallow the brave pills and give it a go.....still not sure it needs taking off though!
It's a random rattle, only on tickover, engine is modified and now no longer in the car it was designed for. I've had a crank pulley go on a Pug 406, that took a week between start of noise and dead!
This noise has been around now for about 4 months, since I had the new exhaust made/fitted, so it amy have been there before, just couldn't hear it!
Had a look at the pulley and the rubber hasn't un-bonded, still looks OK, but that's no proof.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,162
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Aug 29, 2014 18:14:03 GMT
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Well, gave it a go and the starter motor just "stalled"!
Worried about burning out the starter, so didn't keep it powered.
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Aug 29, 2014 19:36:35 GMT
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Are you having trouble locking the engine or have you got it locked up but just cant undo the bolt? I assume you have a decent length breaker bar? I had a 'mare recently trying to get the crank pulley bolt out of my MX5 - had it in gear, handbrake on and chocks under the wheels and was still turning the engine over with the breaker bar. Had to make up a 'special locking tool' aka a bit of angle iron drilled so I could bolt it into the 4 other holes in the pulley and wedge it against a solid bit of the engine to lock it up and then cracked the bolt off no probs.
As an aside, the noise couldn't be part of the new exhaust knocking on bodywork/chassis/suspension component could it? Might just be worth checking if there's any tight clearance issues anywhere?
Hope you sort it!
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Crank Pulley RemovalChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Aug 29, 2014 19:58:16 GMT
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If it is like a Porsche 944, it may have a very high tightening torque.
In which case there may be a locking tool which fits in the flywheel and then allows you to tackle the bolt with a large breaker bar.
In the past I have used a breaker bar with a chisel etc. stuck into the flywheel which has also worked. Another method which works is to put the car into gear.
However, before attempting any of these, being a modern engine I would ensure that the pulley is on a keyway. The last thing you wish to do is to lose the cam timing or worse have the pistons come in contact with the valves.
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Aug 30, 2014 10:35:26 GMT
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If the starter motor hasn't got enough guts. Stick it in 5th and push the car with the aid of some mates
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,162
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Aug 30, 2014 16:21:48 GMT
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If the starter motor hasn't got enough guts. Stick it in 5th and push the car with the aid of some mates You've not met my mates, lazy sods every single one! I've put everything back together, off to Barcelona in it on Friday, it'll either do the trip or it won't. Either way I can stop worrying, or rather I can when I fit a new water temperature gauge, the old fell to bits taking the radiator out! Thanks for all the suggestions and advice, sometimes I think I should get a more reasonable hobby than old cars (esp. modified ones!), something like banging my head against the wall while throwing money away.......oh, I do that now!
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Aug 30, 2014 16:51:53 GMT
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I must admit I used to feel the same way ( I cut my teeth on old rs turbos etc)
Used to struggle and break things. Then I bought some decent tools and every thing is so much Easyer. My rule is if I've got 3 jobs to do on a engine i just pull it out lol
Can get the engine out of all my toys in an hour odd. So much Easyer on the floor.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,162
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Aug 30, 2014 17:26:55 GMT
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Can get the engine out of all my toys in an hour odd. So that's why you're called "zippy"?! I've just run out of time, working all next week (12 hours a day or more!), and if I'm going to pull the engine to find out what this noise is, might as well put a 2.8 back in......and something always goes wrong and delays me, (see above for temp gauge!), so while it's running and running well, I'm going to leave it alone and trust to fate!
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Last Edit: Aug 30, 2014 17:27:14 GMT by andyborris
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Aug 30, 2014 18:20:42 GMT
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I use this tool with renaults to lock up the flywheel. Must be something similar/chisel/screwdriver for the BMW? Also, as ChasR mentioned, it's good to check that there is a keyway. In some cars (at least Renault), there are models wihtout, which rely only on the torque/pression/friction...
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Renault Laguna Sport Tourer 2.0dCi 178hp -11 // Renault Laguna 2.0T -03 // Renault Clio 1.4 8V -00 // Renault Safrane 2.2 -94 // Renault 11 1.4 T -84 // Renault 11 1.4 T -88 // Renault 11 1.7 TXE -86 // Renault 11 1.4GTL -85 // Renault 5 1.3 TS -79// Renault 11 1.4GTS -84
Link to build thread
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Aug 30, 2014 20:05:51 GMT
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Blow torch on the end of the bolt will expand the steel and loosen but only of you know the harmonic balance pulley is ducked....
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Aug 31, 2014 15:11:41 GMT
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Once bent a 3/4 inch drive T bar trying to remove the pully bolt from an L200 did engine ! ended up using a lorry air gun but even that struggled and it rattled the u/js i had to use to bits (litteraly, the pins all fell out), i already tried the starter trick, the T bar just dented the chassis ;( some pully bolt are right Bstds.
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R.I.P photobucket
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Aug 31, 2014 16:14:46 GMT
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Sounds like heat is the way forward.
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Sept 1, 2014 14:22:22 GMT
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Since your pulley bolt is REALLY tight I don't think the following method is a good idea, but for less stubborn bolts I usually feed a length of nylon rope through the spark plug hole when the piston is on BDC leading to compression stroke. The engine is built to take a lot of strain in that direction and by using nylon it'll just burn any strands that may come off (usually doesn't happen though). Just be sure that the valves are closed, don't want them getting a bite out of the rope!
I've also used the starter motor a couple of times with great success.
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Sept 1, 2014 18:08:33 GMT
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this is where I love my Rover diesel - lock the flywheel with a 6.5mm bar (for most - a drillbit) then use a 2 foot breaker to remove, with minimal fuss
I have pity on peeps that have to struggle with PITA crank bolts
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Crank Pulley RemovalChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Sept 1, 2014 18:57:14 GMT
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On my Stag I jammed the flywheel with a chisel (a locking tool as the one above may have been better, and then put a breaker bar on complete with a floor jack pole as an extension. With some cafeful persuasion it came undone .
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Sept 14, 2014 17:22:55 GMT
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Flogging spanner?
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