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Girlfriends £200 punto is weeping oil from front of sump, needs topping up every few days!. It's got a couple of rust scabs on front and it's coming from one of them
It's not worth doing properly so any advice to bodge it? I was thinking tiger seal all over sump when it's been cleaned up?
Cheers all!!
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Last Edit: Nov 1, 2014 22:34:54 GMT by neilclark
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forde
Part of things
Posts: 377
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chemical metal/jb weld etc or just a welder, i would take sump off and clean it up so it sticks possibly? might as well change the oil now its going to stay in.
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'15 Royal Enfield Continental GT
'95 CZ 125 Type 488
'91 Vespa PX125E
'77 Camino, '86 Camino
'82 Puch Maxi S '70 Puch Maxi N
'80 Maxi S "Sport"
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i asked here about my sump on my bmw, its ally, but its a pita to get off due to its got massive box on the side for extra capacity,
I drained the oil and left it for an hour jacked up with the hole high, then wire brushed it, and added JB weld, left it 2 hours, put oil back in it and started it up straight away to get a little heat into it... leak stopped I'm happy.
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Self tapping roofers screw, these have rubber sealing washers and I've heard of them being used to seal leaky pipes on water pumping rigs for example. You will find some are self drilling designed for going into girders, even the normal self tapping ones will go through thin material like a sump especially if it's a bit crusty, and these are probably better as the steel will deform and give more threads as it bites in.
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Self tapping roofers screw, these have rubber sealing washers and I've heard of them being used to seal leaky pipes on water pumping rigs for example. You will find some are self drilling designed for going into girders, even the normal self tapping ones will go through thin material like a sump especially if it's a bit crusty, and these are probably better as the steel will deform and give more threads as it bites in. Mind you don't screw into something on the other side though...... If you can't drop the sump or weld in place, I'de go with the jack it up and drain oil, wire brush or grinder on weeping bit then either chemical metal or tiger seal a close fitting patch onto it - you'll need to leave some pressure against the patch for a few hours while it goes off. Make sure the oil light works and girlfriend knows what it means and doesn't try to drive home if it comes on. |
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Might be a worry using something designed for roofing that it may not be oil resistant or temperature resistant.
I'd go with the JB weld solution. As long as the area is clean before you attempt it then it should be the perfect way to bodge it. The stuff is pretty awesome.
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barty
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,088
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new sumps are £23 on ebay, so why bodge it only for it to leak and poss cost you a new engine, i done one a few years age but cant remember if i had to take the engine out to do it, seem to remember there is a collant pipe that causes problems under the sump too
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,192
Club RR Member Number: 170
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best way to bodge a sump? ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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For £23 it has to be worth doing properly surely, especially as it's your girlfriend's car (let's be honest, not many men these days are mechanically minded, let alone women!). As said if the engine goes the car definitely will not be worth repairing!
On most FWD I would have thought it was only the exhaust at most that required removing.
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Tiger seal will work for a while but you'll find that as you wire brush the sump clean enough for the sealant to stick, you'll end up with a lot more holes!!
I recommend you just bite the bullet and swap it!
I've changed quite a few and they're pretty easy to do, remove the tin flywheel plate from the gearbox for access and if the exhaust bolts aren't seized it's definitely advisable to drop the exhaust at the front to give you more room to maneuver.
It is possible to get the sump out with the exhaust in place but it's a bit of a ballache and I've seen people snap the oil pickup pipe by being too rough getting it past the exhaust....
The sumps are usually pretty well bonded on from the factory so you will bend the mating surface removing the thing, whilst that doesn't matter to you as you're chucking the old one, if you're fitting a second hand pan, check it for flatness first! :-)
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Al.
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