dan91
Part of things
Posts: 416
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Nov 14, 2015 17:03:32 GMT
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So it turns out when you buy a very cheap car.. the locking wheel nut isnt included, and when the brakes need reaplcing thats an issue. From the limited research ive done there's a few methods i know of? It's a Ford locking wheel nut looking like this: I've tried hammering a socket onto it, no luck, 22m slips over nicely but 21mm is too small and wont hammer on. Cant use the reverse thread things halfords sell because it has nothing to grip on. I'd like to avoid welding a nut onto it to unwind it because the only welder i have access to is a cheap lidl arc welder... I'm stuck for ideas, any suggestions welcome.. Cheers.
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dan91
Part of things
Posts: 416
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Nov 14, 2015 17:07:35 GMT
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I'm an idiot, posted this in the wrong section. If anyone could move it it'd be much appreciated.
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Nov 14, 2015 17:13:15 GMT
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Can't use just buy the tool that fits it or nip to a local tyre place and use theirs to loosen those ones
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dan91
Part of things
Posts: 416
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Nov 14, 2015 17:15:21 GMT
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Can't use just buy the tool that fits it or nip to a local tyre place and use theirs to loosen those ones Apparently not, it looks like a common one but they're all slightly different so odds are finding one the same will be a pain. And it's not currently taxed/insured so i cant really take it to somebody.
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Nov 14, 2015 17:20:22 GMT
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21mm impact socket (its harder than the lock nut ) extension 5lb lump hammer hold it square MAKE it fit .Youll prob get 1 chance at it constant turning pressure
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Nov 14, 2015 17:39:57 GMT
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Just preparing you for the worst, I can't remember what forum it was on (was some years ago!) but someone had the same issue, they ended up having to cut the wheel up into pieces to remove it as the locking nut just couldn't be shifted.
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jonxs
Part of things
Posts: 650
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Nov 14, 2015 17:45:00 GMT
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Id try an impact socket, also try tightening the other nuts up more it could relieve the pressure. I had similar on my Volvo, had to 'gently' whack a socket on lol. It worked a treat
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dan91
Part of things
Posts: 416
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Nov 14, 2015 17:52:25 GMT
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Just preparing you for the worst, I can't remember what forum it was on (was some years ago!) but someone had the same issue, they ended up having to cut the wheel up into pieces to remove it as the locking nut just couldn't be shifted. Hondatech i think, i remember the thread. But it's not that its siezed on or stuck on i just don't have the key, the other normal nuts came lose fine so i doubt it's seized on. Id try an impact socket, also try tightening the other nuts up more it could relieve the pressure. I had similar on my Volvo, had to 'gently' whack a socket on lol. It worked a treat Tried tightening the others to give it some room didnt do much, might just spend more hours swearing and hammering tomorrow.
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düdo
Part of things
wide as house
Posts: 770
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Nov 14, 2015 18:00:28 GMT
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I have removed one of these with a pair of pliers. If you've got various sets of pliers - as often is the case - try to find a pair with a snub nose which you can perhaps 'fit' into the nut. I had one pair that sat in there which I could just prise open a bit which gave me enough purchase and leverage to turn the nut. Or punch it and drill it? Weld onto it despite the LIDL welder? ( didn't know Lidl did welders)
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Last Edit: Nov 14, 2015 18:00:40 GMT by düdo
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,638
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Nov 14, 2015 18:05:30 GMT
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Centre punch the stud, 5mm (or smaller) pilot hole and then drill it out slowly with cutting fluid and with progressively bigger drill bits until the stud's gone nut will come off. Does require fitting new stud afterwards but this method is less likely to damage the wheel like hammer a socket over could do.
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Nov 14, 2015 18:22:13 GMT
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I drilled one out on a fiesta. Ruined the student they were cheap and easy to change
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Nov 14, 2015 19:16:49 GMT
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hi there
I can almost guarantee this method will work
loosen the other wheel nuts on the wheel
on a private and safe piece of land drive the car in full lock, first one way and then the next.
The wheel will start to move on the hub, you will feel / hear it moving.
Then jack up the wheel and you will find that the locking wheel nut should be loose.
Have done it this way for 20 years and very rarely failed.
Cheers - mike
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Nov 14, 2015 19:25:56 GMT
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^^^This^^^
That's also how the scallies get alloys off when they nick them.
(well, they bounce the car rather than drive it)
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Last Edit: Nov 14, 2015 19:27:10 GMT by docjock
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Nov 14, 2015 20:27:49 GMT
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What i'd try: 21mm 12 point socket, as cheap as you can get, whack it and it might make it over the nut or even split enough to allow fitment. I'd try that as it's what i have to hand
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Nov 14, 2015 22:01:10 GMT
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hi there I can almost guarantee this method will work loosen the other wheel nuts on the wheel on a private and safe piece of land drive the car in full lock, first one way and then the next. The wheel will start to move on the hub, you will feel / hear it moving. Then jack up the wheel and you will find that the locking wheel nut should be loose. Have done it this way for 20 years and very rarely failed. Cheers - mike You might want to consider fitting a new stud after this, it's probably come loose because the stud has stretched. You may also be able to turn it by knocking it round with a punch at a tangent to the outer surface, with some care it is also possible carve a key from a steel bar with an angle grinder.
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Last Edit: Nov 14, 2015 22:06:32 GMT by kevins
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Chris™
Part of things
This is clearly filler material.
Posts: 519
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Nov 14, 2015 22:27:13 GMT
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Never heard of doing it on the vehicle like that, mad! +1 for an impact socket and a big hammer. Hardest part is getting it started off and going on square. After it holds itself in place, that's when you can start beating it mercilessly with the biggest hammer you can find...
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1989 Volvo 340 1986 Suzuki SJ413 2000 BMW 318ti 2006 Lexus IS250
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Wilk
Part of things
Posts: 528
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Nov 14, 2015 22:28:08 GMT
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Try a 12 point socket in an imperial size between the 2 metric sizes or a sharp cold chisel at a tangent on the outer edge
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If it can be fixed with a hammer, then it must be an electrical fault
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Nov 14, 2015 23:27:17 GMT
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Try a 12 point socket in an imperial size between the 2 metric sizes or a sharp cold chisel at a tangent on the outer edge I'm not sure there are imperial sockets between 21 and 22mm
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