No spark - update

[jim]

I'm getting very close to have my cortina running- I can't seem to get any spark, it's all new coil, leads, plugs and dizzy.

I'm getting continuity in the dash side wiring

Does anyone one know what I should actually be looking for?

It's frustrating how close I am!!

[dodgerover]

Is it still on points or electronic ignition?

[jim]

Sorry electronic ignition

[nomad]

Hi,
Which make of ignition (might be helpful), is it a black-box with several wires or a small "points-replacement" unit that fits under the distributor cap ?

* Is the ignition new or used?
* Could the wires have been connected the wrong way around (and killed the unit)?
* Are you using a ballast-type coil or not (do instructions for the unit say you must change to a non-ballast type)?
* does the unit have it's own fuse - has that blown?

Unplug the HT king lead (from coil to distributor) at the distributor end, attach a spare sparkplug to the end of the lead and rest the sparkplug on a good earth (engine block?) When you try to start the car you should see regular big sparks at the plug.

Just gusssing here but expect the following wires on the electronic ignition :
* earth. check - then recheck - that this has a good contact onto the body.
* 12 volt feed from ignition. use a multimeter to check you are getting 12v when you turn the key
* 1 or 2 wires from the unit to the distributor.
* 1 or 2 wires from the unit to the coil (check you don't have these reversed, the 12v from the unit must go to 12v terminal on the coil not the sw terminal)
* recheck all wiring looking for loose connections or cut/damaged wires.

Expect the problem to be missing 12 volt feed, a bad earth, a blown unit, or (very rare) faulty wiring.

[ChasR]

Nomad has hit the nail on the head IMO.


I'd check for 12V at the ignition coil low tension leads.

If you are getting a spark at the King Lead with a spark plug I'd then check that the distributor cap for issues (like the carbon bush being present).

[bortaf]

12V starter boost conected at the starter?
As above is it full 12V coil or still on the ballested one (you'll have 9V at the coil not 12v if you are still using the ballest).

[jim]

Sorted! It turns outo the Rev counter is part of the circuit but I've got sparks!

Thank you all for replying so quickly!

[jim]

View Video, s47.photobucket.com/user/GT_jim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160330_175348_zps5yq7gyo4.mp4.html

I'm trying to work out why there's no spark, it fires the little bit of fuel in the chokes I put there before the video.

Is this down to the jets in the carb?

[jim]

I've been close to getting the car going, it's turning over and you can hear the engine fire but as soon as you let off the ignition key it stops immediately - it's like the starter has to be turning constantly to get a spark?

Anything I should look at? Anyone in the Mansfield area could come help me for a few hours in exchange for some beer tokens?

[colnerov]

Hi, That means you're getting the ballast by-pass supply from the starter, then when you let the key go it should carry on running on the ballasted ignition supply from the switch. So you need to check the wiring and connections from the ign sw through the rev counter to the coil/ign pack. If you have 12v there then I would suspect the ignition pack

Colin

[dodgerover]

I would say the ballast resistor has failed they are designed to feed 12v to the coil whilst cranking to aid starting then 9v once it's running. Buy a 12v non ballasted coil and run a new feed to it.

[bortaf]

The ballest on the Mk5 is a thick grey wire running from near the servo down the Drivers inner wing, accross the front pannel to the coil, check for 9V at the coil end (IGN on) it does sound like the ign feed isn't there as already said with the ign on you should get 9V to the coil then when you crank there is that 2nd wire on the starter that feeds a full 12V to the coil to make up the voltage drop when the starter is turning over.
What leccy ign is it running ? some aftermmarket need 12V and matching coil, if it's the ford dizzy from a sierra it runs 9V with the ballest.
Is the revcounter factory ? if it is there's an extra conector at the coil on the green wire so it wires in in series with the neg from the dizzy to the coil, it will run with the R/C disconected but if it's had the ford dizzy modual wired in the wiring may well be differant by now

Keep at it chap

[jim]

I've tried some multimeter tests, there's no ballast resistor. I get 12.6v at the battery and 12.4 at the starter solenoid.

The battery is in the boot and when the engine is cranked it the voltage drops to 8.4 at the solenoid. I switched the battery from my daily into it and still slow cranking so could this be the long power cable? Cranking is quicker with no spark plugs which is understandable.

I spoke to accuspark and they've suggested connecting the dizzy to the battery directly but II've not seen an improvement in firing

[ChasR]

Have you checked the resistance of the coil? It should be 3 Ohms on yours. In theory it should not make a difference but if it is a ballast coil (that will be around 1.5 Ohms) it would throw out a fatter spark but it may have also killed it.

Are you near Warwick at all?

[jim]

It's a 3 ohms coil, I'm in Nottingham which is about an hour and a half away

[gazz81]

I'd be inclined to start taking a look at the fueling too.

[jim]

OK, I'm getting fuel from the jet when I turn the throttle, the choke is operating as it should

Should I be concerned by the low cranking voltage?

[jim]

It's a weber 28 36 dcd btw

[gazz81]

If you have the means I'd be tempted to drag it up the road and try and bump start it. I have had cars before that refused to splutter into life off the starter, but drop the clutch in 2nd at 20mph and see what happens.

[jifflemon]

Apr 4, 2016 20:47:06 GMT jim said:

I've tried some multimeter tests, there's no ballast resistor. I get 12.6v at the battery and 12.4 at the starter solenoid.

The battery is in the boot and when the engine is cranked it the voltage drops to 8.4 at the solenoid. I switched the battery from my daily into it and still slow cranking so could this be the long power cable? Cranking is quicker with no spark plugs which is understandable.

I spoke to accuspark and they've suggested connecting the dizzy to the battery directly but II've not seen an improvement in firing

Can you connect some jump leads directly to the stater solonoid and engine (positive to starter, negative to the engine) - See if the cranking improves?