|
|
|
|
|
Didnt know where to put this. Will be a sort of advice sought, progress shown type side project to my CF build. I needed a steel bonnet but there not common. I acquired this one. Its rust free which is mega rare but super dented. Ive no idea what I'm doing but may as well have a go. This is how it should look, good side.  this is the side with the slight dent  Its also slightly tweeked the frame  So, as you can see, maybe not the most suitable 'learn to panel beat' project but never mind. Ive knocked dents out before and re tensioned a panel with heat and water but ive never achieved filler less repairs and never attempted anything like this! As its bad all over I have got as far as assuming the best way to start is to get the paint off and seperate the skin from the frame? Ill probably try straightening the frame first as it seems easier. I also guess I should buy some hammers and dollys as my usual claw hammer and club hammer dolly might not cut it for this. If anyone has any advice or links to learning resources feel free to let me know. Otherwise ill just stumble along seeing what works and well find out if this stuff is as hard as I assume it is. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is something I'd be interested in following also if anyone has the info.
Looking forward to seeing your van progress.
Watching from the shadows....
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hammer and dolly set , bits of soft wood , aluminium flat/round bar , soft stuff that will move the metal but not tear or dent it further .
Watch some youtube vids is all i can say . I'm sure someone more qualified than me will point you in the right direction . There is a massive sticky thread some where TonyBMW springs to mind .
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ive been looking a bit online and have read tonys threads before, I'm sure it will start to make sense as I work on it.
Its worse that it looks in the pics too lol.
Hopefully ill have a go at getting the paint off and seperating the skin tomorrow.
|
| |
|
|
sb
Part of things
Posts: 725 
|
|
|
|
|
I just started trying to beat my valance last week. Honestly getting close is easier than it seems, getting perfect is the really hard bit!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, I'm not going to chrome it, so very close would be good enough if need be.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Try to get a copy of Metal Bumping by Frank T Sargent .- Might be diificult , i have a reprint they did as its a yank book From the 40s or 50s .
It explains dents and how to ' read ' them , that is the way they were formed in which order , and then the reversal by working backwards . All old school stuff with hammers and dollys .
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Edit - its called The Key To metal Bumping and you can get it from Frost restoration and Amazon
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sounds like just what I need, ill look it up. Didnt have chance to touch it today, maybe tomorrow  |
| |
|
|
sb
Part of things
Posts: 725
|
|
|
|
|
BTW if you Google it theres a scanned copy on Google Docs
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
And downloaded to my phone Thats not going to be a savage distraction at work lol. had a bit more of a check over it earlier, I'm going to have to make it worse in order to get to the seams so I can seperate the skin/frame and start making it better. Guy I got it from described it as a crease, I checked it over before I paid though, but it looks like its been driven over. Its only saving grace is there doesnt seem to be any harsh folds or creases. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Read the book mate , you'll be fine . Have a good think about how you will attack it then take it slow and steady until you see if its getting the desired results .
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bought a spot weld drill Couple of hours later I have...  This is the good side of the frame and how it should look...  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Compare the above with the bad side...  And the overall distortion...  So, ill spend the next couple of hours trying to improve this a little and see how it goes. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have read the pdf book linked above, well, skimmed it. But looking at this ive no idea how to translate that to this. Its just squished. So ive given up  Not really I just decided to go all leepu on it, cracked out two claw hammers and started wailing.   Its not pretty LOL. I think to get the shape right I now need to put it on the van and twist/bash it some more. I'm hoping ill be able to pick up some hammers and dollies at the bootsale (cos I'm cheap like that) and then smooth it out some more. Not sure ill go at the skin with claw hammers! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hit the skin a few times with a rubber mallet and my trusty claw hammers but managed to refrain before I make it worse.
Before this goes back together id like to get the rust properly delt with.
Not sure if there is anywhere local to get it dipped and electro primed, not sure id chance any of our local blasters with the skin.
Any thoughts?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Could you not make cardboard profile templates of the good side,then offer those up to the relevent parts of the 'bad' side,so you know how far off you are??
If you see what i mean?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I thought about it but ive no idea if the 'good' side is undistorted.
And besides, it needs to fit my van which may also not be perfect.
It now has the right shapes in the right places, it just needs to overall curves tweeking to match the opening and ill smooth it out more just for the practice ready for doing the skin.
Its not far of symetrical. Ive quite a good eye for that as ive done constructional trades all my life.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2016 17:51:52 GMT
|
I'm hoping ill be able to pick up some hammers and dollies at the bootsale (cos I'm cheap like that) I do the same - it's amazing what people sell on these sales, though you often find the surface is damaged as someone used them as normal hammers before dumping them. I got a nice SP body hammer for £1.50 a couple of years ago, compare that to the Frosts price although it did need a new handle. And thanks Guz for that link. |
| |
|
|
|
|
