Hi, What sort of door is it? Metal? Wood? Hinged? Up and over? Standard size or custom? No there's no reason you can't make and fit your own, but sometimes it's easier and cheaper to source ready made.
Post by davidpallister on Mar 11, 2017 17:23:59 GMT
It's a metal up and over at the minute, but I think its the original 30yr old one. One of the wires only has 2 strands left, and it only has 1 catch at the top, so not the most secure of items.
I want wooden open out barn door type doors as i currently have my VW T3 camper in there whilst I restore it, and there's not much room between the van's roof and the open door. I need to raise the front up on stands to sort out underneath, which means the door is going to get in the way when open.
I'm pretty handy at the old woodwork and reckon I could knock up and fit a pair of barn doors for less than £100. (I'm also half Yorkshire so a tight git!)
Hi, Yes Metal up and over doors are not very secure even fresh out of the box so to speak. They do require work to made secure.
Wooden doors, my parents had new doors on their garage done by a carpenter friend and I got press ganged into helping him. We were chatting and I said I wondered why he didn't make them himself and he said that it's easy to get a 'wind' or twist in them on a door that size which you don't get with factory made ones. New doors can be picked up for not much more than your budget but most ones seem to be about £200 or so with all the door furniture which isn't cheap.
try howdens joinery, there will be one near you as they are quite cheap for doors, they are trade only so you would need to use someones account or blag that you are a carpenter and open a trade account with them
Twist in timber doors can be caused by several factors 1) timber not seasoned correctly... as it dries out the annual rings try to straighten thus altering the shape of the stock 2) tight tenons within mortices. Again, any movement in the timber will twist the finished door 3) general shoddy construction or incorrect joints... dowels instead of tenons
Seen them all during my career
There's no regs regarding type of door... fensa or building refs as it's not a habitable space within. Obviously lintel required above frame and glass should be safety glass
If I were in the market and had the funds, I'd go for the multi fold insulated door, especially if you need to work in the garage during winter. They're not cheap tho. Wooden doors are ok but you'll still have to contend with swelling and having to paint/treat regularly
As an apprentice I was expected to finish from scratch within the day a pair of FL&B doors including machining stock and setting out
Not the cheapest option but I replaced an up and over door with a roller door, secure, no maintenance and no loss of space inside (or outside).
Beware with roller doors that the wider they go the more flex there is at the middle. Seen them where they've been pushed inwards giving enough clearance for the door to clear the side tracks Local unit owner fitted a t shaped ground anchor just inside the door in mid position.... used to lift it out with the fork lift each day. Sadly the door was ram raided in a forward gear nearly killing the culprits in the process. Karma maybe?
Just to put my Fire Engineer hat on for a moment [hat on] the only door in a garage that comes under the Building Regulations is the door between the garage and the house, this needs to be a self closing FD30 fire door set i.e. a collections of components (door, frame, hinges, closer latches etc) that has been tested or assessed to meet the relevant requirements. Not just whacking on an intumescent seal and some 1 inch door stops. [hat off].
My house originally had timber doors on the garage (1930s) but now has an up and over of similar vintage to yours. I'd love a roller door so I can get out T4 in there, but I'd have to find a home for all the other cr@p that's in there first......
Have a look at the various websites (Gumtree, Preloved, Eb@y etc) up & over doors are normally standard sizes so you might get lucky. I found a near new door for my conversion a few years ago for about £50. Modern doors have multi-point locking systems, older door just have 1 catch. Maybe retro-fit modern locks onto your door?
Look at the types of up & over, some come totally into the garage, others are 50/50 inside/outside so they don't need as much clearance inside
Timber doors. I like them but beware if making your own it's easy for them to end up very heavy. Can also be insecure (remove panels and crawl through, or put a hand through and unlock from inside)
A mate moved into a place with a roller shutter, impressive but I guess not a cheap option. The remote opener is a nice touch.
Not sure where you are in the country but ideally, once you have your timber list, get it treated at a local pressure treatment place. It will make it last much longer and be more resistant to woodworm etc. If you are anywhere near me, I can do it for you in my plant.
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