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Not sure if this thread will go anywhere but I have the following ditty to share. Modern Fords with capless "easy fuel system" . I recently bought a fuel additive (injector cleaner) and came across a bit of a stumbling block when I was about to fill up at the petrol station in that the bottle would not bypass the metal flap in the filler neck and was dumping the additive onto the ground by my feet  With the user manual at home I abandoned the idea until I got to the office  . Thanks to the Interwebs I read that the car should have a little plastic funnel in it but the specifics of where to find it were sketchy  . I checked the spare wheel area under the boot liner, nothing. Storage cubbyholes in the drivers area, nope. Glovebox, yep right at the back in a little plastic baggie a small opaque plastic funnel. Insert into the fuel filler neck and bosh, in with the additive and jobs a good-un  . Colleagues at work all said "why didn't you just take it to the garage and let a mechanic do it"...........That's not how I roll people! Anyone else with similar tips, please share  Pics to satisfy  And a rather lovely Mk1 'scort that I adore   |
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Always remove the filler plug from a gearbox before draining. You don't want a gearbox empty of fluid when you discover a seized/mashed up filler plug
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Most modern fords allow the removal of the headlamps without having to take the bumper off first so you don't need six elbows to change bulbs - just a large flat blade or a T30 torx driver.
From memory: all the focus', fiesta mk6 onwards, mk3 Mondeo onwards, all variants of the C-max and S-max, the later (mk3?)non-Sharan galaxy and the Kuga. The Mk7 fiesta has a small clip through the top of the bumper too which you will need a small screwdriver/trim fork for and the Mk2 focus and focus C-max have tags behind the lamp which hook on to the front panel.
More retro oriented: I had a pressure relief valve off a British Rail 'Western' diesel locomotive which wouldn't go back together because the soft brass threads had been damaged. To repair without the use of a tap/die set (which you would struggle to get the correct size for anyway) thread the two halves together as far as they go then back it off 1/4 turn. Give them a moderate smack with a hammer and screw together as far as they go again. Repeat the process until the two components screw together as intended. By striking one half of the assembly, the damaged parts of the thread will be forced back into place by a good bit of thread on the other part. By repeating this over and over as you turn the parts together you planish the dents out of the thread.
I learned this from a real old school engineer called Lee at the Players cigarette factory in Nottingham.
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When removing a track rod end using the "whack it with a hammer" method you need to leave the nut on so you don't clobber the threads. However, if you just loosen the nut, then whack the taper, you may not be able to get the nut off if the thread is rusty. If you take the nut all the way off, then put it back on, you won't have this problem.
(You are all probably laughing at me now because it's so obvious but I had to resort to getting a fat person (me) to sit on the end of a really long bar to unbolt the bloody thing.)
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Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
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Changed the shift plate and valve body in my brothers 300c srt8 Trans and he pointed out that there was no dipstick. You have to buy a test stick from chryco then monitor trans temps at the same time you are adding to get the correct fluid level. Wack.
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60six
Posted a lot
(╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻
Posts: 1,658
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Use a dashcam under the bonnet to detect leaks of all types. Saved me a fortune by exposing an intake pipe that had a split in it (brand new pipe) that would only expose itself at 4000rpm
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Some 9000's, a 900, an RX8 & a beetle
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When removing a track rod end using the "whack it with a hammer" method you need to leave the nut on so you don't clobber the threads. However, if you just loosen the nut, then whack the taper, you may not be able to get the nut off if the thread is rusty. If you take the nut all the way off, then put it back on, you won't have this problem. (You are all probably laughing at me now because it's so obvious but I had to resort to getting a fat person (me) to sit on the end of a really long bar to unbolt the bloody thing.) Two words, angle grinder |
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If you are using Lucas L488 indicators, and have chosen the flat, clear glass ones because they look best but need an orange bulb as an indicator, you will struggle to get the correct one - Halfords didn't even list one.
If you are lucky enough like me to have a wife with a large collection of nail varnishes, OPI orange nail lacquer will make a white bulb glow orange, especially useful when you discover the bulbs you've bought don't fit late on a Sunday afternoon and your MOT is booked for Monday morning...
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1968 Cal Look Beetle - 2007cc motor - 14.45@93mph in full street trim
1970-ish Karmann Beetle cabriolet - project soon to be re-started.
1986 Scirocco - big plans, one day!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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A potato works as a "get you home" condenser in an emergency if your condenser has failed.
Upol Raptor makes for an awesome chassis paint.
Massive offroad tyres way out of balance? Chuck a couple of bean bags inside the tyre when its off the rim.
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Should you happen to find your Range Rover P38 locked and with a flat battery (never!) by all means feel free to use the key manually to open the door. Please also make sure you keep said key about your person, not in the vehicle.
The reason is simple in that when you apply a 12v source, the ungrateful curse word will revert to her last remembered state, i.e., locked.
Key in pocket? No problem. Key in ignition? A world of mither! 😊
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you speak from experience???
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Always remove the filler plug from a gearbox before draining. You don't want a gearbox empty of fluid when you discover a seized/mashed up filler plug Good shout. Also, in the absence of a suitable 17mm allen key for an old VW gearbox, you can use a wheelbolt and a ring spanner. However, if it lets go with a bang (After, say, 160k miles), then it may well fly into the middle distance, never to be seen again. At which point you have to admit to your then-fiancee that you had lost one of her wheelbolts... |
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If you suspect a duff head gasket pressurising the cooling system, bodge any kind of pipe from the header tank overflow, long enough to reach the windscreen.
Take the motor for a spin, preferably up the biggest hill you can find, if you suddenly get the best windscreen washers you've ever seen, you know it's defo pressurising
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measure 20 times weld 1 time
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you speak from experience??? I'm afraid so. In the short stay car park at Manchester Airport on a Friday night! |
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Batteries. "Minus never alone".
When disconnecting a battery, undo minus first, then plus. When connecting a battery, do plus first, then minus.
Why? When you're working on the plus pole with minus disconnected, and you touch the shell or the frame with your tool, nothing will happen. If minus is still connected, you'll have a nice firework and/or a mirror written Hazet logo burnt into your palm forever...
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if the wife is given grief , just for working on your classic .
then its time for her to go
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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if the wife is given grief , just for working on your classic . then its time for her to go Don't get married in the first place. Just find someone you hate and give them your house, you end up in the same place much quicker. |
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If you round a nut off......... STOP buying cheap tack gear & go see the Snap-on man.
As my old college lecturer used to say, ' I'd rather spend £20 on a spanner to get me out of the sh1t, than a fiver on the one that got me in it'.
''Tis true
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cooper grease every nut bolt washer screw, saving time futher down the line
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With the user manual at home I abandoned the idea until I got to the office 
. Thanks to the Interwebs I read that the car should have a little plastic funnel in it but the specifics of where to find it were sketchy 
. I checked the spare wheel area under the boot liner, nothing. Storage cubbyholes in the drivers area, nope. Glovebox, yep right at the back in a little plastic baggie a small opaque plastic funnel. Insert into the fuel filler neck and bosh, in with the additive and jobs a good-un 
. Colleagues at work all said "why didn't you just take it to the garage and let a mechanic do it"...........That's not how I roll people!
