awoo
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,503
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the short version: got a respray and its gone bad, see pics below. the long version: earlier this year I posed this question about getting a vespa painted, here: forum.retro-rides.org/thread/202708/proper-spray-job-rattle-cansso as a quick background, I bought this vespa, one owner for past 14 years, 180cc polini engine with some other nice bits, been off the road and just about to turn if nothing was done as rust was starting to get in, but by no means bad. decided to do a nut and bolt restoration, everything came off and every nut and bolt replaced with stainless replacements. was aim for it to be 100% rust free and never have a seized bolt ever again and making it as best as it can be. I spent hundreds of hours getting it absolutely perfect, if things weren't right it was started again, no compromises, bought only the best parts for it where possible, anything was replaced with a better replacement or the original parts kept where possible. cut out any rust and tig welded fresh metal in, had numerous little dents from 35 years of being used so it got a light skim of filler where needed to get it all nice when painted, did everything I could to prevent it going rusty, as the intention was to use it to ride to work on. so with all that in mind and the original thread I decided to get it sprayed professionally at a body shop rather than do myself. in order to get it done properly. I got it blasted back to bare metal and a coating of etch primer. I did the body work, got the rust out, skimmed it where needed and handed to the painter, he wouldn't take it until filler was totally smooth, he picked out what I had done and said it wasn't good enough, I went back probably about 6 times. which was great as I thought he was being as meticulous as me. I got it good as I could then handed to the painter who would finish it off and paint. got it sprayed with a base coat, some little marks showed up with paint so I went back and redid those little bits and handed back for the last bit. I'm going to miss a couple bits out now so as not to mislead anyones opinion and skip to the end. so got the bike back, looked good, paint cost a small fortune, fair bit more than the bike originally cost, white pearl as used by another Italian manufacturer. reassembled it and got it running and fresh MOT. finished article:  that was around August where it was complete and on the road. its been out of the elements and never got wet, fast forward to now. and I have this in patches all over the new paint which is only a few months old, where its bare metal underneath   there are a few other bits I'll leave out right now as I just want to see what other people think before I post part 2. I think I know what the cause is ultimately this has completely ruined something I have put an enormous amount of work in to so am pretty gutted. would really appreciate any thoughts before posting the next bit. some cars for penance       |
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brachunky
Scotland
Posts: 1,314 
Club RR Member Number: 72
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Absolutely gutted for you. For what its worth, I have a trike frame powdercoated early this year which developed blisters after a few weeks and this was in my garage. Got the paintshop owner around who was equally upset but agreed to redo the job. Seemed to be materials which has been too long in stock which caused it. Been fine since he redid it. Really hope you get it sorted depite all the hours put in.
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This is why i won't let customers do any prep work...
My advice? before moaning on a forum, talk to the business that did it and see what they say? If you already have thrn apologies.
From what i can see, moisture is under the paint. What materials did they use?
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Actually looks like corrosion....
Why did you miss out the painting stage?
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awoo
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,503
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thanks for the replies. I'm not trying to moan, just get ideas before I do approach the painter, I picked him up on a couple other things and he got a bit defensive so I want to be clear with what I have before I do again. I'm no painter and never had a respray before so would like to get the thoughts of others before I go back and upset anyone with getting the wrong end of the stick. my understanding is the paint was fresh from a local paint shop, apparently he used "the best galvanised primers". he was handed a bare metal frame with flash rust on the surface in places where it had been handled, although this came off very easy with wet and dry paper. this was it when I dropped it off  |
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This is why i won't let customers do any prep work... My advice? before moaning on a forum, talk to the business that did it and see what they say? If you already have thrn apologies. From what i can see, moisture is under the paint. What materials did they use? He’s not Moaning as you put it The guy has asked for advice |
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Fraud owners club member
1999 Jaguar s type
1993 ford escort
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awoo
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,503
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Actually looks like corrosion.... Why did you miss out the painting stage? I didn't want to lead anyone to think what I'm thinking. I will post that bit next though. would just like objective ideas from looking at it as it stands on the face of it |
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that looks like micro blistering painted in a moist area
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Actually looks like corrosion.... Why did you miss out the painting stage? I didn't want to lead anyone to think what I'm thinking. I will post that bit next though. would just like objective ideas from looking at it as it stands on the face of it it looks like poor prep, but then reading galvernised primers??!!! Sounds like its that popping through. Deffo doubt it anything you have done... process should be from where you left off.... 2k etch primer, light dusting 3 coats of 2k high build primer, bake to cure dry flat to 320/400 grit, if all good then...... wet on wet coat to seal primer in 3 coats of base, nice and even 1 drop coat, even out the colour/metallic/pearl 3 coats 2k clear, bake to cure. wet flat and polish I would really go and talk to your painter before time passes. If you paid less than £700, thats about right. biut not for the end result if he is an established bodyshop, he will warrant his work and do it again. doesn't help you really with all the effort, you will have to do it all again. |
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This is why i won't let customers do any prep work... My advice? before moaning on a forum, talk to the business that did it and see what they say? If you already have thrn apologies. From what i can see, moisture is under the paint. What materials did they use? He’s not Moaning as you put it The guy has asked for advice And i am giving him advice........ Need the details 1st though But thanks for bringing it to my attention. The phrase moaning can be taken several ways....  |
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Its micro blistering and almost certainly caused by moisture that is trapped under the clear coat - has for the list above has to what the process is it all depends upon what paint process is being used in the first place and very few professional painters will bake paints in todays market since the chemical technology of paint has advanced to the point of curing automotive paint finishes is quicker chemically than an baked process can achieve. From my eye the painter has used a water based - base coat or primer and not dried it sufficiently enough prior to applying the clear coat.
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Last Edit: Dec 6, 2018 21:44:14 GMT by Deleted
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This is why i won't let customers do any prep work... My advice? before moaning on a forum, talk to the business that did it and see what they say? If you already have thrn apologies. From what i can see, moisture is under the paint. What materials did they use? He’s not Moaning as you put it The guy has asked for advice |
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if he is an established bodyshop, he will warrant his work and do it again. doesn't help you really with all the effort, you will have to do it all again. No he shouldn't - if the guy painting it has fcuked it up, then it's down to him to sort it out - if that's sanding back to bare metal and starting again then that's his problem - or he compensates the OP for the time he put into it. I do the bodywork on my rally car - I'm quite happy to admit my work isn't concourse as after a few stages it's going to show signs of wear - but it's a duck sight better than this. |
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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Has that been outside with a cover on it after paint?
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Definitely moisture, only way you'll know for sure where it is trapped is start sanding
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Is it ok for me to jump on this thread to get some advise? My Escort was painted about 10 years ago and is covered in micro blisters. It was painted at this time of year with lots of moisture in the air and not in an oven. I can live with this. It was free and it's only a rally car. My Cortina mk2 is currently at a painters. It was media blasted and immediately epoxy coated on a boiling hot summers day. I went to see the car last week, and although it's been stored inside while there working on it, it was covered in moisture. The painter said he would bake it to remove the moisture before painting. Will this stop micro blistering.
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Is it ok for me to jump on this thread to get some advise? My Escort was painted about 10 years ago and is covered in micro blisters. It was painted at this time of year with lots of moisture in the air and not in an oven. I can live with this. It was free and it's only a rally car. My Cortina mk2 is currently at a painters. It was media blasted and immediately epoxy coated on a boiling hot summers day. I went to see the car last week, and although it's been stored inside while there working on it, it was covered in moisture. The painter said he would bake it to remove the moisture before painting. Will this stop micro blistering. Jonsey - It should but this is not good practice for a bodyshop - cars should be kept dry & moisture free once the paint preparation stages are commenced - body filler & some primers actually absorb moisture and if this is trapped under the final paint finish it will undoubtedly come through at some stage and lift the paint finish - its a very difficult balancing act attempting to keep a large workshop moisture free especially through winter where doors are opened & closed often / cars going in & out of the workshop etc - The epoxy coating over the bare metal is irrelevant if the fillers / primers that have been applied over the top of the epoxy are retaining moisture when the final paint finish is applied - hope that makes sense - Chris |
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Is it ok for me to jump on this thread to get some advise? My Escort was painted about 10 years ago and is covered in micro blisters. It was painted at this time of year with lots of moisture in the air and not in an oven. I can live with this. It was free and it's only a rally car. My Cortina mk2 is currently at a painters. It was media blasted and immediately epoxy coated on a boiling hot summers day. I went to see the car last week, and although it's been stored inside while there working on it, it was covered in moisture. The painter said he would bake it to remove the moisture before painting. Will this stop micro blistering. Jonsey - It should but this is not good practice for a bodyshop - cars should be kept dry & moisture free once the paint preparation stages are commenced - body filler & some primers actually absorb moisture and if this is trapped under the final paint finish it will undoubtedly come through at some stage and lift the paint finish - its a very difficult balancing act attempting to keep a large workshop moisture free especially through winter where doors are opened & closed often / cars going in & out of the workshop etc - The epoxy coating over the bare metal is irrelevant if the fillers / primers that have been applied over the top of the epoxy are retaining moisture when the final paint finish is applied - hope that makes sense - Chris Thanks for the reply Grumpy. I'm hoping it'll be ok after a good bake. I know it's no fault of the painter. He's kept it in doors. It's just this time of year is pants. Ideally I would have liked it preped and painted in the warmer months but it's so hard to get a full paint job on cars here, you've got to take the time slot you can get. |
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if he is an established bodyshop, he will warrant his work and do it again. doesn't help you really with all the effort, you will have to do it all again. No he shouldn't - if the guy painting it has fcuked it up, then it's down to him to sort it out - if that's sanding back to bare metal and starting again then that's his problem - or he compensates the OP for the time he put into it. I do the bodywork on my rally car - I'm quite happy to admit my work isn't concourse as after a few stages it's going to show signs of wear - but it's a duck sight better than this. ?I meant stripping it all down to get done correctly...... |
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Is it ok for me to jump on this thread to get some advise? My Escort was painted about 10 years ago and is covered in micro blisters. It was painted at this time of year with lots of moisture in the air and not in an oven. I can live with this. It was free and it's only a rally car. My Cortina mk2 is currently at a painters. It was media blasted and immediately epoxy coated on a boiling hot summers day. I went to see the car last week, and although it's been stored inside while there working on it, it was covered in moisture. The painter said he would bake it to remove the moisture before painting. Will this stop micro blistering. yes it will |
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