|
|
Jan 20, 2024 16:48:37 GMT
|
If you are not worried about the warning light, you just need to connect one side of the switch to a fused 12v and the other to the line which triggers the fan relay, the diagram above will work fine.
If your switch has a integral LED it will have a 3rd terminal which is usually earthed, if you don't want the light don't connect the earth terminal.
if you want the LED to only come on with the overide switch, connect the switch earth and put a diode with the triangle pointing away from the switch in the wire between the switch and terminal which triggers the fan relay.
|
|
|
|
|
andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
|
|
Jan 20, 2024 20:11:26 GMT
|
Sorry if I'm being dense, but the diode is used to stop the led in the switch being on all the time?
So if the override switch is off and the thermo switch is on, the 12v can "flow" the wrong way and illuminate the led?
|
|
|
|
jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,815
Member is Online
|
|
Jan 20, 2024 20:50:13 GMT
|
Correct 👍 the diode blocks the reverse feed so light will only be on when the switch is on.
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 20, 2024 21:26:08 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
|
|
andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
|
|
|
Correct 👍 the diode blocks the reverse feed so light will only be on when the switch is on. Gotcha, and this means I can do the dash wiring today while it's tipping down! Just won't connect the earth wire to the switch till the diode arrives!
|
|
|
|
andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
|
|
Jan 21, 2024 20:35:06 GMT
|
I’m sentimental, I can’t deny it. And when an old and faithful tool reaches the end of it’s life, I’m sad. I remember the good times, the bad and how long we’ve been together. Today a spring inside my ratchet insulated crimp tool failed and the tool stopped working properly. I brought it, roughly 45 years ago from the big car spares dealer on the A13 in Dagenham, the name of which escapes me, but may have been a branch of Ripaults. My daily driver at the time was a pre-airflow Lotus Cortina MK1, which I used to drive to work in Hackney as a bus driver for London Transport,( driving Routemasters). My children were all under 5 years old when I took them to the 1st ever Bromley Pagent in it and it’s a perfect example, (the ratchet crimper, that no longer ratchets!) of a possession recalling all sorts of memories. Anyway back to the present and further wiring completed. Panel lights wired, decided that the new water temp gauge should always be on with the sidelights, it’s too important not to be illuminated, the other dials can be turned off for night driving. A radiator fan override switch installed along with a radiator fan off switch too. It’s a Land Rover and I do hope to use it in it’s natural environment, which may include some water deeper than a puddle and the last thing I’ll need is an electric fan spraying the engine bay with water as I traverse the rivers and floods that may be in my path! O.K. a bit over the top there, but still a good idea. I can now turn on or off the rad fan independently of the thermo switch in the cooling system. Removed the dash map light, seems to have a been a trailer side light, so very low wattage bulb and not much light. The hole left behind is very neat, a superb piece of metalworking and I’ve no idea how to fill/hide it! Then the girlfiend fell over with a pain in her side and that was that.
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,311
|
|
Jan 22, 2024 12:32:51 GMT
|
Did I see your thermo switch was in the top hose? If so IMHO it should be in the bottom hose, as the fans are there to cool the radiator when it's not cooling enough. Dan
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2024 12:50:11 GMT
|
Even the OEM's can't agree on that one, one school of thought is as you say, the other is the top hose is the hottest part of the cooling system and this is what you want to control and react to as quickly as possible, given the history of this I'd stick with the top hose!
make sure the sensor is in the bottom of the top hose though, if it's in the top there is a good chance it will be in air.
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 23, 2024 19:28:59 GMT by kevins
|
|
andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
|
|
Jan 22, 2024 17:28:29 GMT
|
As ever, it's the packaging that dictates the position, simply haven't got the space to fit a sender in the bottom hose, it's in the upward leg of the upside L that is the top hose and so I hope, always in the coolant.
"history of this" did make me smile.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2024 15:25:15 GMT
|
On modern cars the signal for the fans to come on is send by the ecu. Which uses the engine temp sensor to determine when to switch on and off. That sensor is usually in the cylinder head or near the thermostat.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2024 19:30:11 GMT
|
Yep a lot of them even use it to control the Thermostat now as well.
|
|
|
|
|
andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
|
|
Jan 23, 2024 19:38:46 GMT
|
Perhaps either position works but needs different temperature settings....anyway can't change the sender position on the Lightweight.
However I did think of using a surface mount switch, perhaps glue it to the rad, but I couldn't find one with temp limits I wanted and using 2, one high and one low to control the rad fan was more technical than I could be bothered or cope with!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2024 20:41:21 GMT
|
The top hose ones are usually a higher temp in my TR7V8 I use a 90 degree one in the top hose which works a treat, even in the 40 odd degrees summer we had a year ago and with the std TR7 radiator (got ridiculously hot inside the car though!)
|
|
|
|
andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
|
|
Jan 23, 2024 22:39:21 GMT
|
I've just fitted a 92/87 switch, which may be too cool, I've been Googling and reading that the thermostat isn't fully open till 96/98 degrees...! It's an easy thing to change though and I'd rather it's running slightly too cool rather then too hot, "given the history of this one".
That's my new favourite quote now!
|
|
|
|
andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
|
|
Jan 24, 2024 20:05:47 GMT
|
So, in-between the storms, yellow weather warnings and just general life, I've had a few hours to work on the Landy. Did I mention that a new Durite Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge, arrived to replace the new Durite Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge that I bu**ered by snipping through it's capillary tube when I went to re-position it? Put the tube for this one in some convoluted tubing to protect it, I've also installed the way it should’ve been the first time. I'm burning through a bit of money doing rework, i.e. as above or re-routing wires, which then need new crimps because of the new route etc.. Once the gauge was fitted and plumbed in and the capillary safely routed. I re-fitted the alternator, it's multi-vee belt, support/brace and the top hose, or as it's also known, everything that was removed to access the temp gauge sensor bulb. Then today, using some battery cable removed from the County, I wired the alternator. Battery cable may seem a bit of overkill, but when I collected the engine from a nice chap in Dorsert, (wish I'd taken some photos of the 30's supercharged pick up he was building), he offered me some extras for free. The alternator was one, but I have no idea of it's output and I think this type comes in many flavours, from 55 amps up to 120. So I've killed 2 birds with one stone, an alternator wire that'll cope regardless of the amps and have very little voltage drop! Then I connected the starter using the original cable, then re-positioned the solenoid activation wire because both the starter cable and this wire are routed differently and in convoluted tubing away from the exhaust manifold and it’s heat. Pleased with how this looks, even though no-one will see it. The starter cable and solenoid wire, which you can't see! The battery cable will gain a better fixing in time! Horn, all lights, brake lights, wipers, indicators, starting/charging circuit and the radiator fan circuit all now fitted and tested. Re-routed some wires to achieve a neater appearance, this adds considerably to the time the work is taking, but nowhere waiting for parts to arrive does. Not sure if I’ve reached the halfway stage yet, I’ve got reverse, rear fogs, fuel pump, coil and screen wash to wire and I want to move the fuel pump closer to the tank by mounting it on the chassis. It’s under the bonnet at the moment, which adds to the general noise in the cabin and has to draw the fuel up from the tank, I’d rather the pump was gravity feed, it’ll last longer. I’ll need new fuel pipe for this, so if anyone can suggest a trustworthy supplier for fuel hose please. Not sure if it’s problem now, but when I built the Triumph a lot of hose was marked as safe with modern fuel, only to leak after a few months! And then when all that’s done it’s the part I’m dreading, I remove the whole loom to sleeve it! And hopefully I'll drive it up here one day.
|
|
|
|
big02
Part of things
Posts: 62
|
|
Jan 24, 2024 21:23:57 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2024 21:45:44 GMT
|
Another vote for Cohline. I get mine from Car Builder Solutions.
|
|
Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2024 10:10:05 GMT
|
Same here had it on the range rover for around 5 years now still looks and feels like new.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2024 17:49:25 GMT
|
First. How is girlfriend?? Nothing serious I hope. Second, I envy those brave enough to re wire cars. I have fitted relay activated spotlights and felt like a Rocket Surgeon..... Thirdly I hope you keep the smoke inside but I remembered this stuff
|
|
|
|
andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
|
|
Jan 25, 2024 20:06:51 GMT
|
Girlfiend is fine now, thanks. I think it's an old rugby injury playing up... I've replaced wiring looms like for like before and done the usual extra circuits. Added a BMW M52 ECU into a Triumph 2000 MK1 wiring loom when I did the Triumph/BMW engine conversion, but this is the first complete re-wire I've attempted. The Land Rover is pretty simple though and while I'm sure a professional could do it neater, quicker and with less re-work or waste, it is happening. All the circuits that are fully installed work and there's enough now that I could drive it and it'll pass a MOT. I'm afraid that Lucas smoke isn't the right stuff, the Landy is negative earth! And while the BMW ECU into Triumph sounds impressive, it was only one wire!
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 25, 2024 20:07:38 GMT by andyborris
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2024 20:25:04 GMT
|
I’m sentimental, I can’t deny it. And when an old and faithful tool reaches the end of it’s life, I’m sad. I remember the good times, the bad and how long we’ve been together. Today a spring inside my ratchet insulated crimp tool failed and the tool stopped working properly. I brought it, roughly 45 years ago from the big car spares dealer on the A13 in Dagenham, the name of which escapes me, but may have been a branch of Ripaults. My daily driver at the time was a pre-airflow Lotus Cortina MK1, which I used to drive to work in Hackney as a bus driver for London Transport,( driving Routemasters). My children were all under 5 years old when I took them to the 1st ever Bromley Pagent in it and it’s a perfect example, (the ratchet crimper, that no longer ratchets!) of a possession recalling all sorts of memories. Wag Bennets?
|
|
|
|
|