andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Mar 14, 2024 16:29:26 GMT
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Thanks Glen. I'd be fitting it just for the fuel gauge and knowing BL/Rover it'll probably have the wrong ohms scale!
The dash has been an un-wanted excursion really, should be concentrating on the "kettle" aspect!
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,105
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Mar 14, 2024 16:37:07 GMT
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No problem. Most Smiths gauges work from the same ohms scale, so you should be able to get things working one way or another. I did edit my post on the last page, don’t know if you have seen it.
The long and short of it is I think you’re right that it wants painting, especially if you don’t intend to fit any more gauges or switches.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Mar 14, 2024 18:23:12 GMT
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Think your right about the paint, v8ian just suggested a Rover P5B dash binnacle, which I think is a really good call.
Maybe later.
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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Mar 14, 2024 18:28:24 GMT
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And the temp gauge was there before I decided to change the dash. It's a capillary gauge, so I have to remove the alternator to access the sender, then 3 ugly holes would be left in the dash metal. So couldn't face moving it!
Most Google says that the Landy is one of the few vehicles to use a reverse ohms scale, most cars have low ohms equaling low fuel, Landys have high ohms doing the low fuel! Except that at some point they changed to the more usual way, then add in the different fuel tanks and (I think) 2 different ways of fitting the sender and it means I'll be taking the tank out to solve the problem!
And it looks like it's got a LWT underseat style tank, mounted in the chassis!
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Last Edit: Mar 14, 2024 18:33:50 GMT by andyborris
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,105
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Mar 14, 2024 19:24:21 GMT
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Your series 3 should have the conventional late 60s on Smiths setup where shorting the sender wire on the body should move the dial to full, and disconnecting it drops it back to empty. Only the pre 1965-ish vehicles are the other way around.
I think that the original lightweight panel would have been smaller, with two sub panels either side, so that kind of makes the unpainted single one look huge. It’s not that there’s anything wrong with it, just that it’s not what I’m used to seeing.
And we’re all different. Me, I’d sooner look at three holes in the dash top than having an odd gauge up there like that. 🤣
Good that you’re making progress though, hopefully the rain will stop soon. 👍
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Mar 14, 2024 23:22:18 GMT
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I think it's not a Lightweight bulkhead, the "box" that the dash plate is on should be inside the engine bay, but that's full up with V8 is what it should look like. I did not know that about testing Smiths gauges, will try tomorrow.
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Mar 21, 2024 18:32:01 GMT
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Taking things for granted. After some time was spent encasing the wiring in convoluted tubing, I realised the main beam warning light in the new speedo was on, no matter if the headlamps were high or low beam! Oh dear, I've cocked the wiring up. A good few hours were spent checking my wiring till I found the problem. Remember the Landy had been "rewired" in what looked like 3 core house wire? I'd left the little loom that went into the headlamp bowel, checked the circuits, then wired to the switches. The house wire had been soldered to a headlamp terminal, the joints were then covered in copious amounts of PVC insulation tape. Which wasn't insulating, the main and low circuits were making contact. This also fooled me into confusing the wires for the circuits! And because I'd taken it for granted that I'd made a mistake and the simple circuit in the headlamp was fine, I'd wasted almost a whole day. At least I didn't have to remove the convoluted tubing. I'm going to (I think) put the crimp terminal joints inside the headlamp bowl, then use solder terminals to remove the joints that allowed the headlamp loom to be removable. The joints inside the bowel will perform that function.
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Last Edit: Mar 21, 2024 18:32:58 GMT by andyborris
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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Mar 21, 2024 22:59:20 GMT
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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Mar 25, 2024 17:15:20 GMT
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Taking Glens advice, I did this. And it looks better, not much, but better. It's still a big flat bit of metal, but it's hiding the holes left by the removal of the useless dash light and some random switch holes. What I'd actually like is the original Series 2 style panel. I've asked the only company who remanufactures it if I can buy one without holes, (so I can use different gauges) and they've ignored me.... Anyway, with all the wiring in place, all the electrics working, it was time for a clean. When I say clean, I mean put some decals on and sweep it out! And then drive it. That fantastic moment when all the hard work and expense pays off, but I turn the ignition on and the oil warning light has gone missing! So dash off, check the bulb, then check the wiring and find it's the sender. Put the dash back and go back into the house and order turf. No, not going to bury the bloody thing, I've promised to do the garden when the Landy was "finished" and I told the Girlfiend it was "finished"! I'm not going to risk driving it without the oil pressure light working, one should arrive in a few days and now I must move it to get the turf into the back garden. It'll take longer to put my overalls on and find the tools, then to actually fit it and then nothing can stop me! I'll drive it. I'm sure I will........one day.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Mar 27, 2024 23:18:32 GMT
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New oil pressure sender arrived, fitted it in between the hailstone downpours. Why did this one have a funny sized hexagon on it? The only size I don't have a spanner for? Find this a lot now with minor parts that should be a proper Imperial size, it's like the Chinese company who makes them gets the idea of Imperial, but not quite! Anyway bodged a tool together and got it tight and the found out it's not the sender at fault, 'cos it still don't work! Re-checked the wiring and now it seems to be a wiring or busted bulb. Another age related thing I guess, because when I checked the wiring/bulb, they were fine! Checked the old one by grounding the wire to sensor, if I'm doing that wrong, please say! Then refitted the fuel pump, I'd got 500 liters of cheap heating oil, it came in 25 liter cans, so the fuel pump was used to transfer it into my oil tank! Not sure if it's bu**ered it though, it did seem to take long time to fill the carb.....and then I said "sod it" and did this. YES, 4 WHOLE MILES! And then made a list of everything that needs fixing. And in no particular order are: The brakes, they need pumping to even get a bit of braking. The clutch, still dragging a tiny bit. The idle, it keeps stalling. And while it didn't overheat, it did get very hot 105c. However the fans when switched on (via over-ride) very quickly pulled the temp down, still unsure why this happens. Is it the thermostat , the fan switch or lack of air flow through the rad? I don't know, but may change the cooling system anyway, I'm considering fitting injection.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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And get the oil light working. It also sounds like it's not running on all 8......enough for now.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,105
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Progress.
I can’t help with any new suggestions about temperatures.
Brakes are likely to be either misadjusted or misassembled. Do you have twin leading shoes at the front (11” drums), or do you have 10” all round?
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Progress. Brakes are likely to be either misadjusted or misassembled. Do you have twin leading shoes at the front (11” drums), or do you have 10” all round? Fronts are 11" TLS and rears are 11" SLS, so I think it's a combination of un-bedded shoes, a slight leak somewhere and adjustment. Pretty sure I've got them assembled correctly. Do wish I could buy better quality adjusters, Chinese cheese steel isn't the right material for those! When the snow melts and I've turfed the garden, I'll have a look. Not sure what happened to retiring and putting your feet up, feel like there's not enough hours in the day now! And today is the day the turf is arriving!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Apr 16, 2024 15:13:01 GMT
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It’s been a few weeks since my last post and I imagine you’re all on tenterhooks wondering how the turf laying went? Well, it went fine, good quality turf which laid very easily and then a few sunny days with a lot of rainy ones, means it’s now looking very lush. Or rather, the bald patches where the turf was laid look lush, the rest of the garden still looks a bit scruffy, but that’ll have to make do with re-seeding. The Land Rover? OK, I guess. I’ve now done the grand total of 21 miles in it and I’m starting to feel ever so slightly confident that the kettle effect has gone. It has got very hot on one occasion, reaching 130c before I could find somewhere safe to pull over and switch off! I think this was caused by a combination of too much advance on the timing, running on 7 (or less) cylinders and me giving it the beans all at the same time. A new to me timing light fixed the advance, while a set of Mr Retroleads plug leads sorted the lack of cylinders. Not sure how to rid myself of the devil who sits on my shoulder though! Now the timing and lack of firing cylinders problems are fixed, I’ve had it running on the drive for 30 mins, ticking over at running temperature, fans turning on & off as needed with out going over 98 degrees. So all good, I think. The Edelbrock Carb gained a new electric choke to aid cold starts and the dash gained a couple of warning signs that help break up the blackness of it. Drilled out the rivets in the seat box lid to look at the fuel sender and the wiring is dead. It should have 12V at the sender, the other wire being an earth. I think I’ll leave this till the new fuel gauge arrives, this one has a switchable ohms scale and a white back light. This means it should work with whatever ohms range the sender has and the backlight will match the rest of the dash. It’ll be easier to test the sender with the gauge out of the dash, easy enough to run 12V and an earth to the gauge to check the sender ohms scale (or if it even works). I’m pretty sure the Edlebrock carb needs setting up for this engine. I’ve tried reading the “how to” and I’m no nearer to understanding “how to”. A future problem to be addressed after I’m sure the car runs without being a kettle and (more importantly) I get the brakes working better. On the run before the last one, I discovered that the brakes needed a “pump” to have any kind of stopping power. A bleed and an adjustment got the brakes working better, but now it’s guess which side of the road you’ll veer to as you stop. I’m hoping that with more use the brakes will adjust better and all the air will get bled out. The speedbleeders have made the bleeding process about as quick and easy as it can be, especially if the grilfiend lends a hand. I’ve had problems getting drum brakes to work well before, I think it’s a combination of modern asbestos free linings and poor manufacturing tolerances, leading to long bed in times. I do have alternatives to the cheap parts currently fitted (not by me!) i.e. LOF Brakes, who claim much better tolerances on shoes and drums or a disc brake conversion, which is almost fit and forget without the adjustment needs of the drums. However, that’s expensive and really expensive! Slightly off track, but I once owned a Alfasud which had disc brakes that needed adjusting every service. They were “inboard”, hidden down in the engine bay and the adjusters (one for each side of each caliper!) could only be turned one flat at a time, while using a feeler gauge! I think the biggest challenge for me and the Landy is yet to come and that’s being confident enough to take the girlfiend and dogs to Penycae on the Brecon Beacons in it.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Apr 23, 2024 11:38:46 GMT
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2024 11:39:20 GMT by andyborris
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,105
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Apr 23, 2024 11:49:08 GMT
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Yeah, that might cause an issue or two.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,197
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Apr 23, 2024 12:22:41 GMT
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Poop....
Have you found all of the bits?
Looks like to collets stayed put, but can't see any bits of valve?
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2024 12:23:36 GMT by Davey
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Apr 23, 2024 14:43:09 GMT
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Haven't looked for the bits yet, just sitting down and thinking about a 300TDI conversion....
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Apr 23, 2024 16:57:41 GMT
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Don't do it! Step away from the diesel...
Assuming it's just bad quality control on that valve that's caused the problem and not some bigger issue of something being in the chamber and breaking the valve then it is pretty easy to sort out.
With all 8 running it'll be sweet!
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Apr 23, 2024 16:57:49 GMT
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is the valve seized in the guide?
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2024 16:57:59 GMT by kevins
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