andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 25, 2024 20:33:02 GMT
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Yes! Wag Bennets.
Haven't been down the A13 for years, I know the new road bypasses where Wag used to be.
I remember it as a proper spares shop with the big parts books and everything covered in the dust of aeons, but the "blokes behind the counter" knew every item and where it was.
Still have a plastic compartment box of grommets I brought from them, not many grommets left now after 45ish years, but some have found their way into the Landy, keeping up the tradition of me fitting at least one these grommets to every car I've ever modified!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 29, 2024 10:04:11 GMT
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Re-wire is almost complete now, just waiting on fuel hose and a couple of dry days to reposition the fuel pump and I'll be back onto the kettle problem, oh joy! Freely admit I know nothing about electronics, but I manned up and purchased a diode and installed it as per kevins instructions and ....nothing! The switch simply stopped working. So, either I've brought the wrong kind of diode, installed it wrongly and bu**ered it or I've managed to wire the switch incorrectly and now the diode won't help. Or maybe all three! Is what I broughtHad a spare in-line fuse holder in the re-use Quality Street tin, which made it easy to install and why I brought it. As I said before, not that worried about the switch warning light and now I've no choice! Been looking at the dash, a lot lately and not just because I'm doing the wiring behind it. My Lightweight version of the Series 3 has a flat bulkhead with what is basically a sheet metal box bolted to it to serve as the dash, this then has a Series 2A dash panel bolted it to hold the gauges and some of the switches. I'm unsure how original and factory this is, I'm pretty sure the bulkhead is a civilian replacement version and I'm unable to find any pictures of a dash that looks like mine! Anyway, with it's non working speedo, inaccurate fuel gauge (that might actually be the thirst making the gauge always read empty!), redundant coolant gauge and a sprinkling of extra odd size holes for various extra switches, it's a mess and not a nice thing to glance at whilst trying to keep the Landy in a straight direction. I do have a low cost plan, but it'll wait till I've re-routed the fuel line and pump, wired pump, re-torqued the heads, checked timing and got the thing running. If it's still a kettle, I'm unsure of what to next, perhaps a TDI conversion is in it's future.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,816
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Jan 29, 2024 12:08:13 GMT
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Try fitting the diode the opposite way 😉 i.e. turn it round. If that doesn't work take it out and replace with a fuse to prove your wiring and switch works.
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Last Edit: Jan 29, 2024 12:16:31 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 31, 2024 19:27:49 GMT
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Today I started to fill the radiator with coolant and after a few seconds I remembered to close the radiator drain valve!
Once I’d got back up, I carried on filling the radiator, that’s the 3rd time I’ve done this recently.
It’s a worry, this memory loss and sometimes an allied lack of concentration too. Old age, something I won’t outgrow!
Anyway, wiring is mostly done. Fuel tank and loom sleeving are the only things unfinished.
Sleeving, because I’m dreading it and also because I don’t know how long it’ll take!
I’ve got a friend visiting in a couple of weeks and I’d like the car driving by then. I need to bleed the clutch, bleed and adjust the brakes and hope there’s nothing else wrong with them.
If I take all the wiring out to sleeve it, something I’ve never done before and then don’t get it done in time, he’ll be very disappointed. This way he stands a chance of driving it, assuming I get the brakes etc. working!
The fuel tank gauge isn’t wired , I can’t get to the sender or the fuel pipe without dropping the tank.
So the reposition of the pump and new hose fitting won’t happen just yet. The tank sender still has a good length of 2 core wire attached. Unfortunately, the 2 core wire is brown and yellow/green, so I have no idea what does what!
I guess I’ll have to wire it and then find out by swapping wires and swapping wires has also got both the rad fan switch and it’s LED working properly.
Don’t ask how, it worked fine at first, but had the led on all the time (as predicted). Then when I installed a diode, the whole switch stopped working, I removed the diode, but the switch still didn’t work.
Swapped the switch wires, so now both switch and LED are functioning correctly,. I’ve gone from working switch/permanent LED to nothing working, then everything working correctly…..it’s a mystery!
Anyway, after I’d tightened the drain plug, I filled it with coolant and started it.
FORGOT HOW LOUD IT IS!
Adjusted the timing, still not perfect, but good enough to get it to idle. I’d taken the distributor out to fit the temp gauge.
Coolant temperature climbed steadily, watched the gauge give a “blip” when the thermostat opened.
I’m afraid I chickened out when the gauge hit 92C, that’s when the fan switch is supposed to switch the fans on, I didn’t wait but hit the manual over-ride switch….the fans worked however, pulling the temp below 90c within a few seconds.
Not sure if I have a leak in the radiator or if it’s just moisture on the engine, but there was a lot of steam. I have been working under the bonnet whilst it’s been raining, so I’m hoping for the 2nd.
No obvious bubbles in the coolant and the coolant hadn’t dropped a lot once it’d cooled down.
I’m also wondering whether to do a “re-torque “ on the head. I’ve converted to studs instead of stretch bolts for the heads and I know a lot of studded engines have this done after a few miles
What’s your opinion?
Not going to tempt fate by saying anything about the kettle. Still, it’s better than it was I hope.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,816
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Jan 31, 2024 23:37:03 GMT
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Bite the bullet and let the temp climb a few deg over 92 and prove your temp switch works 🤞 better doing it while stationary rather than finding out it doesn't work while driving. Sounds like you crossed the switch wires, no matter if it's working now 👍 Can't see what harm it would do to check the torque on the head studs
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2024 23:39:35 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 31, 2024 23:50:37 GMT
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Bite the bullet and let the temp climb a few deg over 92 and prove your temp switch works 🤞 better doing it while stationary rather than finding out it doesn't work while driving. Sounds like you crossed the switch wires, no matter if it's working now 👍 Can't see what harm it would do to check the torque on the head studs I know you're right, I'll have to put my big boy pants on though . Not going to say anything about the witchcraft switch.....and I think I'll do a re-torque, the internet seems to think it don't do any harm and is something that was popular in the 20th century, which is where this Buick engine came from!
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,816
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Before stretch bolts a re-torque after a few miles was the done thing, I've done it quite a few times on BMC/BL 850/1100/1275/1800 engines 👍
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Last Edit: Feb 1, 2024 22:11:37 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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A couple of clicks on the Norbar Torque wrench for about half of the nuts. Harder than I thought with carb and other ancillaries on the engine.
Clutch next.
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There's a panel screwed to the seatbox under the seat under which you will find the top of the tank.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Yeah, previous owner riveted it in place....!
With lots of rivets and mastic/glue.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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While I'm here.
The plan for the clutch, which has it's bleed screw in a very awkward place, is to wedge the pedal down and then use a Easy Bleeder.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Cables. Cables are good, good for operating things, things like clutches. Yes, you guessed right. I lay under the Landy and had a nightmare trying to bleed(ing) the clutch! The Easy Bleeder blew brake fluid out of the reservoir cap and from the little joint piece between reservoir and pipe, both streams of fluid meeting under the reservoir, where I couldn’t get to, to mop it up! The bleed nipple under the car is almost impossible to get to, certainly can’t a pipe onto it and I struggle to turn it. I think if I’d built this car, I’d either re-routed the pipe to the slave cylinder, (it blocks access to the bleed nipple) or put the bleed on some sort of extension. Then I tried to adjust the front brakes, these have 2 cylinders in each drum and have a snail cam adjuster. The process (as I understand it) is to adjust each brake shoe till it starts rubbing, then back off a “click” I couldn’t feel any “clicks” and the shoes or drums have some many high spots, the brakes either drag a little or are locked. Like the clutch, frustrating and hard work with an uncertain finish. I have no idea if the clutch is now “bled” and will work or if the brakes will not catch fire when I drive the thing, assuming that I can bleed the brakes! At least the brake cylinder with the bleed nipple has been put at the top of the drum, bleeding the cylinders via the bottom cylinder would be a bleed(ing) nightmare. After spending time wishing cable brakes would come back into fashion, I did this. And I ask, which do you prefer? (Ignore the rope around the bumper, it’s for tying the bonnet fully open, not for snatch recoveries!) Tomorrow, I'm fitting blinds and bath panels (in the house!), but I will explain why I think cable brakes are a good idea soon.
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Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,197
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Quite like the asymmetry of the single.
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300 EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Quite like the asymmetry of the single. Me too and it'll irritate a lot people too! I'm now thinking one huge Super Oscar right in the middle.....
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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" or put the bleed on some sort of extension."
Turns out Land Rover did exactly this on new vehicles. There's a extension pipe and bracket that mine is missing, seems new slave cylinders aren't supplied with the extension pipe and banjo pipe fitting, the old ones tend to be very rusty and people do exactly what I'd do, fit it without the extension because they need the car and they can't wait for the missing parts!
Thinking (if I can get the pipe and nipple off without removing the slave!) replacing both missing extension pipe and the master to slave pipe with braided hose.
I could also solve the adaptor that leaks on the M/C. And remove about 4 joints and the possible leaks.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,816
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Sounds like a good idea the less joints the better 👍
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Speedbleeders seem like a good idea too.
The cost, not so good!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Feb 11, 2024 22:31:40 GMT
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A job list for the new house was issued and eventually completed. This, along with a long wait for parts interrupted work on the Landy, so not much done since my last post. But a start has been made on labelling wires and connectors, prior to removal of the loom for sleeving. I haven’t drawn a plan of the looms layout, but I do have a system for labelling. Each connector has a code number, that number is recorded along with the wire colours and the colour wire it’s joined to. I’m using Lucas wiring colours, but because I haven’t got all the colours, some wires have a “near to” colour. This is why both sides of the connectors are recorded. Tried to adjust the brakes, manual says to “adjust till drag, then back off one click”. Can’t hear or feel clicks and it’s a choice of locked when turning by hand or dragging in spots. Think the shoes need some bedding in! Anyway, picked a spot between locked and dragging just a bit. Tried to bleed the clutch using an easy bleeder type thing, which didn’t work and also found a leak from the adaptor in the master cylinder, could've fitted just a new copper washer, but it was rusty so replaced. And then I treated myself. Purchased Goodridge speed bleeders for both the brakes and the clutch. Hoping this helps to get a nice, bubble free pedal on brakes and clutch, something I’ve not been able to achieve so far! Started with the clutch bleed nipple, what a pain! In the end I had to drop the exhaust system and even then it was a real cold fingered struggle. In the chassis, almost under the nearside exhaust manifold is a hole, it’s meant to be there, why I don’t know. Think I’ve lost at least 4 exhaust manifold nuts into it now. Doubt I’ll hear them rattling about above all the other rattles, whines and squeaks of a leaf spring Land Rover! Won’t know if I’ve got a working clutch till it’s off the axle stands and after the brakes have had the same treatment, but at least the brakes are a 5 min job once the wheels are off.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Feb 21, 2024 11:37:28 GMT
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Land Rover is now off the axle stands and waiting for a test drive, but when I try to start it, no joy. Might be a simple reason though, a lack of fuel! The needle of the new Chinese gauge is firmly set against empty. This might be a wiring issue with the dreaded 2 core house style wire from the sender, no idea which wire goes to where on the sender (tank needs dropping to see) and a choice of 2 different ways of wiring, depending on which sender is used make it an unknown. So I'm not even sure if it's a lack of fuel. The easiest way to check this is to put some fuel in surely, (I hear you say!). And you're right of course. And of course, now is the time for the Jeeps wheel bearing to whine so loudly, that even the radio can't drown out the noise any more. So no way to pop to the garage 20 miles away for a drop of petrol. I'm loathe to risk driving the Jeep till it's fixed, which should be soon. Once I've got it started, I'll find out if the one rear wheel brake will free off. The other 3 wheels are adjusted so the wheels turn, but still have high spots that "grab" When I tried to adjust the N/S rear, it stayed locked, no matter how much the adjuster "clicked". And when I tried to back off the adjuster to remove the drum, it stopped adjusting, the bolt now just turns uselessly. Which means I can't remove the drum to investigate, not quite sure what I'll do about this, any ideas? Tried to fit the sleeving on the wiring and it's very difficult, only managed to sleeve the 4 wires for the N/S front wing lights and that took 3 hours! Might rethink this, it does look good though (I think). Not a great picture, but it gives an idea! And while I was typing this, the mechanic phoned about the Jeep, front wheel bearing & hub is £350 + VAT! How can Rockauto get the same SKF part to my door in 3 days from the USA for £197 including taxes? Anyways, onward and upwards as always! And I'm going to ask a favour now. Last year we adopted 2 dogs from Spain via a charity called Spanish Stray Dogs UK. The UK charities wouldn't allow us a dog at the time because we lived in a flat. SSD where willing to look past this and allowed us to adopt Bonny and then later Ambar . I've since got involved with the charity, helping with fostering dogs, providing advice and fund raising. Don't worry I'm not going to ask for money! But I will ask for 5 minutes of your time please, to vote for Spanish Stray Dogs UK in the Movement for Good draw HERE . It won't cost anything, you won't get spammed and the charity could use the £5000. Thanks for reading. And if you're thinking of adopting, can recommend Spanish Stray Dogs UK Spanish Stray Dogs UK
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Feb 21, 2024 11:44:54 GMT
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In the hour I've taken to type the post above, Rockauto have received my order and have now shipped it to arrive on Friday!
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