ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Dec 14, 2017 20:20:07 GMT
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Back at the height of the craze I had my rig working through a DV27 bolted through an upturned biscuit tin in my bedroom... every time I cue'd the mike my dads tele went off downstairs..... A modern multiband cb might be good if a few classics were going on a road trip.
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Dec 10, 2017 10:32:53 GMT
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Mazda, Hiroshima, 1978.... and 1981...
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Bad snow forecast this weekend so maximising my storage... hope those anchor bolts hold out!
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Last Edit: Dec 8, 2017 19:58:18 GMT by ian65
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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when I put my 2 post lift in I built the floor up with 150mm type 1 MOT stone, sand blinding, 1200g dpc polythene, mesh with 600mm x 600mm x 600mm pits under each post base both with rebar and tied into the rest of the slab then 150mm of C35 readymix concrete finished with an easyfloat... obviously there are more stresses and loadings from a 2 post compared to a 4 post but you still need thickenings in the slab under each post. here's my build / floor... forum.retro-rides.org/thread/197207/another-garage-workshop-mancave-thread.
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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varies from car to car... I've never poly'd a FC so I can't comment but I can say that on a RX7 FB the poly bushes are a vast improvement over OEM rubber on a road car......... change from rubber to poly on a Jag or a Spitfire though and it'll ruin the ride on a road car.... some cars it suits, others it doesn't.
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Nov 25, 2017 22:24:35 GMT
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Nov 18, 2017 13:46:34 GMT
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One way to crack the flywheel nut off is to put a bottle jack under the end of the breaker bar and push up with that. If you've weighted the engine down sufficiently, of course or just smack it with a lump hammer and bolster
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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So i bought this from the restoration show a couple of weeks ago..... wanted one for years and finally got around to getting one. I'm currently using crush glass blast media which is great on rusty parts but a bit severe for alloy..... it will probably calm down a bit once it's done a few cycles through the gun and broken down a bit but I want something a with a lighter touch to do my inlet manifolds.... Anyone else got a blast cabinet and what blast media do you use and for what? Any handy hints?
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Nov 17, 2017 18:05:35 GMT
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Blimey Steve, you love welding cars don't you?! I spent 20 yrs restoring Spitfires, I've lost count of how many I've done and although they are a piece of cake to work on, you have to be a bit careful welding in new sills and any work to the front chassis rail / hinge boxes ( replace them at your peril) The best 2 bits of advice I can give you re the sills are: 1. Only use Heritage genuine outer, inner and sill strengtheners.... these are stamped from the original factory pressings and the parts will fit first time... pattern parts are cheaper but never go on as well as genuine. As much as possible always try to unpick it along the factory seams by drilling the spot welds out and then plug welding the new panels on. genuine sills will align perfectly and if they don't then the tub has moved. As sills weaken over time due to corrosion and age, being an open top car, it will begin to fold and the door gaps will start to close up. you've done the right thing bracing the door gap but that assumes that your car hadn't sagged to start with. 2. Before you fit your new sill, make up an adjustable brace out of some threaded rod, conduit etc and then refit your door..... adjust the adjustable brace until your door gap is perfect and only then weld the new sill sections into place. If you have a hard top, bolt that on too to help brace the tub. Floor pans are available and are easy to fit either complete or cut to just replace the corroded section on your car.... they aren't cheap but the heritage floor pans are the proper job and make replacing adjacent panels much easier. TD Fitchett at Telford and Moss Europe are the best places to get panels from. Try and get hold of a copy of these books if you can find them at the right price... invaluable for anyone restoring a Spit... www.amazon.co.uk/Triumph-Spitfire-Restoration-Practical-classics/dp/1873098332www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-Gt6-Vitesse-Herald-Guide-t-Lindsay-Porter-Accepta/282627671909?hash=item41cdec0765:g:0i4AAOSwkRpZo5NeRe the clubs, Sideways technologies for modifying... sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/forum/47-members-cars-and-project-threads/&page=2Club triumph for driving, tours and meets... club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.plTSSC for polishing your car and handing over fees each year for no apparent reason... www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/index.aspAs a modding type guy Steve, you would probably gain from and enjoy Sideways Technologies, a forum set up by Dave Powell about 10 yrs back,I don't know if Dave still involved with it but he was a clever guy who did a great modded Spitfire... crazyspitfire.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-max=2008-01-06T00:11:00%2B01:00&max-results=5&reverse-paginate=true&start=5&by-date=false.
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Last Edit: Nov 18, 2017 7:17:28 GMT by ian65
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Nov 13, 2017 19:19:18 GMT
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Dean worked on my RX7 turbo at his previous place and he's spot on.... both Dean and Adam have been very helpful to me in re-commsioning my RX7 after a 19 yr old layup..... well recommended.... good luck with the new venture guys... I'll get some of the lads together for a road trip down to your garage in the spring for a cuppa and a chat... great to have a classic friendly garage in the area that's run by true enthusiasts.
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Last Edit: Nov 13, 2017 19:20:27 GMT by ian65
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Nov 13, 2017 19:10:30 GMT
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great post and reviews... very interesting... thanks very much for posting
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Nov 12, 2017 21:03:17 GMT
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Anyone know how i might get the phone working? I know it needs a sim in it, but is it possible to actually make it useful? Like receive calls to my mobile through it hands-free? Or would it be purely for novelty's sake? I used to swap my sim between the my own mobile and the car but that easier said than done with the new iphone type microsims... As suggested, just stick a payg sim in it... giffgaff or something £90 in the tank?... at the height of the high fuel prices around 2011 /2012 I was putting £110 in mine every four days.... they do like a drink.
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Nov 10, 2017 20:30:24 GMT
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Yeah, sorry, I was referring to the pukka metal tapes
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Nov 10, 2017 17:07:07 GMT
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A few months ago I put a Pioneer KEH-M8300 radio cassette into my GTI and although I mostly use the radio and cd multichanger, I did think of getting some cassettes.... anyone seen the cost of blanks these days... bloody hell, expensive or what?
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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great that you're finally getting to enjoy it... they are a nice place to be... I used mine as a daily for 6 years and driving it still put a smile on my face even the day I sold it. When you floor it and hold it there from a standstill and the acceleration and torque just keeps coming, together with the howl from the supercharger, it's addictive. It was described by one journalist as the feeling like a jet accelerating down a runway for takeoff and that perfectly sums it up. They pull just as hard 120 mph to 130mph as they do 60-70....... I once had mine up to 135 until I bottled it and it was still pulling like a train then... apparently they do that until they hit the limiter at 155..... cars with the limiter off are 170 mph+. A 2 ton car that will pull 0-60 in little over 5 seconds...for less than the price of a 5 yr old Ford KA.... what's not to love? For me these XJR V8's are the epitome of the XJ saloon range.... still low and sleek, fantastically engineered with performance to match. No doubt the modern XJ saloon is a better car, better engineered and better to drive but it doesn't even look like a 'Jag' I grew up with the XJ range from the series 1 up to these last X308's and this will always be the classic XJ shape for me. Dash bulbs can be a pain to try to source... it's easy to end up mixing and matching them which just looks worse... maybe worth looking on ebay for a row / bank of switches to swap in or to rob the bulbs out of.... at least then it should all light up the same. Is it an original Jag screen? I had a stone go through mine and had it replaced on the insurance. I did quite a bit of research and the internet is abound with tales of owner having had their screens replaced at Autoglass type places and then features not working afterwards. I insisted on a genuine OEM screen and stood over them whilst they installed it to make sure the rain sensing and heated parts of it were correctly connected up and worked afterwards.
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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main issue is usually chrome chipping from the edge of the housing... less than 3mm from the edge is ok. If you use new side seals then lapping the plates slightly will take the shine off them and help the seals to bed in... a bit like glaze busting a piston engine for new rings.
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Last Edit: Nov 1, 2017 20:28:42 GMT by ian65
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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good work... what condition are the housings in? Are you going to hand lap the plates?
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Oct 30, 2017 19:48:24 GMT
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great news!
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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I'd say so yes, mine used to come on if it was a foggy morning.... WTF? But, if the tensioners were failing to the point that the chain was slack it'd be like a drum solo in the front cover plus if the cause of the misfire was the timing had slipped due to play/slack in the timing gear it would be missing all the time all over the rev range, not just when cold. The most likely cause is electrical or the EFI system. In addition to the usual CLT and AIT sensors, throttle pos sensor, MAF, CAS, etc all feeding info to the ECU there are also a plethora of other sensors and valves as well any one of which could be dodgy or have a bad connection and would result in a bad signal to the ECU causing it to overfuel or underfuel or fire the ignition at the wrong time... plus the coil packs and plugs themselves could be breaking down.
I know we always fear the worse with these engines which are known for timing gear issues but if the timing had slipped due to the chain the miss wouldn't come and go... it would be there all the time. When my tensioners went, I was just parking the car and the engine was only on tickover and there was only a bit of play in the chain but it sounded a right racket.... I was dead lucky... knowing my way around an engine and recognising the sound I turned it straight off and trailed it to the specialist for repair so it didn't get chance to do any internal damage to the engine which would probably have written the car off ( same thing has happened to my daughters Mini Cooper this week except she was on the M56 and it's totally trashed the engine from top to bottom). if your car has already had the newer steel tensioners fitted then you should be ok... you could always get it checked for piece of mind but I can't see it's the cause of a cold start miss.
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Last Edit: Oct 22, 2017 19:44:22 GMT by ian65
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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they're complex animals to diagnose... you can probably fix it yourself once you know what the problem / duff part is but to diagnose the fault the easiest way ( and probably cheapest in the long run) is to take it to a Jag specialist with the proper Jag software or autoenginuity to find the fault for you... you can then take it from there.It'll only take them 10 mins to scan the car. Have you tried a cheapo ebay OBDII code reader?, this is the one I bought...I used to keep it in the boot! www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-Car-Fault-Code-Reader-U480-Engine-Diagnostic-OBD2-OBDII-ELM327-SCANNER-/142535595326?hash=item212fc8953e:g:1KEAAOSwIgpZ3VEmcheap as chips and amazingly it pulled out a surprisingly high number of codes out of my XJR.. you only have to go over a bump in these cars for the engine management light to come on... one of these cheapo code readers will reset the EML... maybe worth a go. It comes with a list of generic fault codes but you can download the Jaguar specific codes anywhere off the net. Obviously, it won't pull out as many codes as the proper Jag gear a specialist has and it won't pull codes out of abs or airbag modules but it's worth a go for a misfire, plus it's a dead handy thing for a XJR owner to have ... in fact, they should come as standard in the toolkit as they are the thing you'll use the most.
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2017 6:37:04 GMT by ian65
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