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That joist is primarily to stop the roof spreading in theory it shouldn't be carrying down wards load, the weight of the roof should be born by the wooden wall plate on the top of the wall that the rafters sit on. Bolting a 6x2 at the side of it making sure it is also fastened to the feet of the rafters will be fine. isn't that an A frame truss though? supporting cross purlings with the sheets or roof boards nailed straight ontop of the purlings, without rafters every foot or so like you'd have in a house roof, the wall will be carrying some of the weight but surely there's weight bearing down where the top beam of the truss joins the cross beam above the cut out as the top beam is carrying the cross purlings that are supporting the roof? I do agree that bolting the extra 6x2 along side the original will do the job though.
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I'll be honest, it's not the most sprightly of things with the early VM engine in, though i've not done any more to the engine than a basic service, so maybe there's a bit of room for improvement, this was the same engine they used in the early diesel range rovers, which must be even heavier than an SD1, they must have been even worse.
A while back in practical classics, they did a BL special supplement where they tested all the different variants of the SD1, they had the gold diesel car that has been very well restored and is quite well known on the rover scene as the test car, it's actually the sister car to this one having the similar reg with the CON suffix, i think like this car it may originally have been a left hand drive model, this car was one of a batch that were bought from rover by a dealer in LHD spec and swapped over to RHD, it has a few LHD bits still in the interior like the vanity mirror on the sun visor.
Anyway, going back to the point., they tested the diesel variant in PC and ISTR they thought it even slower than the 2 litre. As you'd expect from an 80's Td engine, there's a fair bit of turbo lag, it's slow to get going but it rolls along ok once you've build a bit of speed up, it can be annoying if you follow someone who slows to a near stop for every corner though.
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apart from that time, obviously.
well for some reason it's decided to work for me now, perhaps it's because i've rebooted and cleared the cache, but anyway i agree with you using the forum's hosting service makes more sense and is easier as i don't have to spend ages uploading to imgur first.
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I realise that, when i use the add photo tab at the bottom of the reply box, and select a photo from my computer memory, nothing happens
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I can't get the forum uploader to work either, but yeah, photobucket have ruined so many threads on here from the past, i think they realised their website was going down the pan and tried to cash in by holding their remaining users to ransom, apparently a lot of online retailers used them and they thought these users would pay to get their sites up and running rather than lose sales, it was a pretty mercenary and cynical tactic
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the wheel arch wasn't that bad, annoyingly, i just missed a wheel arch repair section for this side on ebay about 6 months ago, i put about £60 on it which i thought would be enough, but i was n't too bothered about one for this side because superficially it didn't look too bad, but as the rule of old cars goes, there's always more rot than you think. The problem with the arch, as you can see in the pic above with the outer skin trimmed off, is that there was rust between the outer lip and the inner lip where the two panels were laminated together, so even though you could perhaps have got away with cleaning it up, there's no way that the rust wouldn't have found its way through again.you can see in this photo, (hopefully) that the inner lip is pretty shonky. (Note also the obligatory filler from a previous repair) now i forgot the camera when i was making the nits for the arch so i only have this photo of the part repaired arch with a fabricated arch section part welded in what i've done is folded a return on the pan folder and then curved it to the correct profile using a shrinker stretcher, that's relatively easy, i've then had to make the return profile for the arch itself, which is something like a 25 degree bend, the problem is when you try to curve that on the shrinker, it bends both ways, you keep having to beat it flat again which then changes the curve. In the end i cheated and made it in two sections which was a bit easier but it took hours, so if anyone has a wheel arch repair section going spare for the RH side i'd very much like to buy one. because there wasn't much rot, i've been able to keep most of the original arch so hopefully once it's filled it will look not too bad, the top edge had been swaged and slotted under the existing metal to avoid having to make a perfect curved cut to butt weld it.
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Last Edit: Mar 1, 2020 21:54:34 GMT by matbrojoe
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ok, let's try again, this should be the trimmed off wheel arch lip
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Last Edit: Mar 1, 2020 21:37:30 GMT by matbrojoe
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Is that slimmed down beam safe I don't have any experience with this sort of stuff but id think that the weight on a thinner area would cause stress on the wood. But looking foreward to updates. It's holding together so far, but it's definitely not strong enough for the job it's trying to do. I think the best solution is a length of C24 construction grade timber (the strongest you can buy) bolted up to it, and resting on the wall plates at each end. That will effectively give it a whole new beam across the bottom. It won't look pretty, but....it's a garage, not a cottage. That would be a good idea, what i'd be tempted to do would be to put a new beam on the one side as you suggest and then laminate the join on the other side with some 3/4 ply where the top beam of the truss joins the cross beam at an angle, that's pushing down on the thinned down beam with the weight of the roof, and you can see where the beam is opening up with the down force where the top cut finishes. cut out a triangle of ply to suit and screw it over the joint extending 2 or 3 foot towards the middle of the truss, if that makes sense.
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can't see what i'm doing wrong here, anyway, some more links this is the towing point which has rotted out at the lamination as usual imgur.com/2bIMynerot chopped out and a new flange made for the recess imgur.com/O2npOK2flange in place imgur.com/3Mr4aA4new section butt welded in with reinforcing plate welded on top and the original towing eye re used, I've drilled the reinforcing plate behind the towing eye and welded it on from behind. imgur.com/vZSrciB
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Last Edit: Mar 1, 2020 21:18:33 GMT by matbrojoe
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well that's a bit of a bummer.
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Right, i've restarted the computer and I've switched from chrome to IE, let's see if the picture uploader will work now
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Thanks Jim, in hindsight i should have taken the photo of that repair after i'd ground the weld back, not my finest bit of weld that.
That was quite a tricky bit to make because neither the return at the bottom or the bends in the sill itself are straight, the sill flairs out at the back and the return as a kink in it where it steps out about 20mm
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Last Edit: Mar 1, 2020 20:52:19 GMT by matbrojoe
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let's see if i can get the pictures to work now: no would seem to be the answer to that question for the moment (edited to show pictures) here's a link to the repair panel i made for the rear of the sill from inside the wheel arch and that bit capped off and finished with sealer and primer. I'm using chrome on windows 10 and when i try to upload either using the post picture icon or the add picture tab at the bottrom of the post, i just get a blank space, literally nothing happens, is it me of a glitch with the forum?
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Last Edit: Mar 1, 2020 22:09:39 GMT by matbrojoe
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Thanks for that Scott. I was lucky enough to meet Jim in the flesh as it were at the last NEC restoration show along with the blue diesel.
I was looking under the bonnet of it and he came up to me and said said 'i bet you've not seen one with that engine before'
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This is my B reg rover SD1 turbo diesel. Bought 4 years ago now on ebay as a bit of an impulse buy as i ran a 2 litre poverty spect SD1 in the 90s and quite fancied one of the diesel variants back then. This one was rough round the edges but basically sound and with 12 months mot, the vendor had rescued it from the brink and done a pretty good job of sorting the mechanicals, but the body left a bit to be desired, but despite it's appearance, it was surprisingly solid. I've had it MOTed over the summer and used it a little bit but it needs some welding to the rear of the sils to tidy it up for another test, so while it's laid up for the winter i'm trying to get that done. Here are some not very good pictures of it in the workshop. on edit, can't get the pictures to load onto the page. so these are the direct links This is a pretty rare car with only about 4 left on the road, so i bet there's no one else on retro rides got one of these eh? what's that? OH.
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Last Edit: Mar 1, 2020 22:11:59 GMT by matbrojoe
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Feb 21, 2020 20:38:42 GMT
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I think they may have been sourced from multiple vendors. doing a quick dvla check on 4 random registrations the most recent i could find was the 309 towards the end of the auction which last failed an mot on tin worm in 2018
maybe the success of the last sale has prompted them to seek out some similar lots.
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Feb 21, 2020 18:36:58 GMT
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The insurance category system is a industry code rather than a legal requirement. there's no legal reason why a category b car cannot be put back on the road, it's just that uk insurance companies have all agreed that they will not sell cars that have been categorised a or b on an arbitrary system that they have invented for repair, and under this system such cars will not be sold to anyone other then licensed breakers. I believe their prime motivation was to stop badly damaged cars being bought for their identity and used to 'ring' a similar stolen one.
There's no reason an insurance company can't let an owner keep the salvage as part of the settlement though, other than the company's own internal policy on this matter. under the industry wide salvage code they can't sell certain categorised vehicles to anyone other than a licensed breaker, but there is a loophole to let the original owner keep it if the company wants to.
You insurance company may well have a company policy of not letting the insured party keep the salvage, but you can negotiate with them and if you do this, don't be fobbed off with the 'it's category b, we can't let you have it back because the law' argument.
Ultimately with any claim, the vehicle is still yours until you accept the insurance companies offer to effectively buy it off you.
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Feb 20, 2020 20:01:44 GMT
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Had a look through the list, the dolomite TC, genuinely was used in a Madonna music video, 1 :44 so factor in some dents on the roof then. edit: i see MkX beat me to that gag by 3 hours, i'll get my coat.
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Last Edit: Feb 20, 2020 20:05:31 GMT by matbrojoe
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Feb 20, 2020 19:56:18 GMT
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There's no way this many neglected cars naturally come onto the market in one go. This auctioneer specialises in farm goods. My guess is that the bulk of this is some mad old (recently deceased) farmer's hoard. Some of it was probably in closed barns, some of it in open sheds and the rest outside. I know exactly where this is, and I know who exactly they all belonged to - I bought my 'first' A35 sponsored by vino rouge and eBay from them (for the record I wish I hadn't!) Hoarder is exactly the right word, father and son combo whose main focus was/used to be Capri's hence the tie in to the capri-based conversion mentioned above, they wound a few folk up in ford circles for various reasons I think. Capri Club International was to do with them in some way or another as I remember the sign on the gate.
<snip> ETA - found this online which gives more info: Capri Club International, launched in 1983 by Warwickshire car salesman John Hill, now has 8,000 members who are offered a monthly magazine (with a problem page for those suffering 'misfire trouble') and a range of merchandise that includes Brooklands coasters and MK11 key rings.
Yes it looks like the owner of the cars is the guy who ran / runs the capri club international, not everyone is a fan, apparently. www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30851from what i can make out CCI is the guy's personal business rather than a non profit club run for the members, they claimed 8000 members at £30 quid a pop every year. now we know what he spent the money on.
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