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Jun 10, 2018 20:09:44 GMT
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Do you really like the seats you've got?
Could a car trimmer remove some foam and make good? My dad had foam removed from the seats on a couple of his bikes because he's on the short side, and they made it look like it hadn't even been done - I wonder if similar could be done to your current seats.
Because they're pratty rad if you ask me.
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Jun 10, 2018 19:59:21 GMT
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I was really interested in this but the other half was up visiting her sister - looks awesome, definitely going to try and get there next year.
By the name, sounds like a good candidate for a hayride replacement - was it?
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Jun 10, 2018 10:40:06 GMT
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After a short test drive settled it in, I could see that the suspension is actually sitting on the bump stops: So I got them off and went at them with a hacksaw: Much more room now. I softened up the fronts half a turn, and took two clicks off the rears also, and it drives considerably better now. Only concern really is the wishbones have settled to over horizontal as you can see in the first picture, however it seems to drive ok so I will see how I go. I'm going to keep hold of the original, thicker spring pads in case I want to raise it in future.
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And I guess for me that's the other point that I sometimes try to explain whenever somebody gets a bit exasperated with my pages of ninsense... To somebody with all the gear and a space to work the idea of doing some stuff is absolutely a no brainer. "Just get it done" they say, "Stop overthinking". But you can't transpose the sense of easiness you feel with your years of experience, loads of equipment and a space to work in onto somebody who has basic tools, has to work in the road, and in my case is self employed and may have to suddenly down tools for three weeks at a moment's notice, leaving the car in pieces on stands in a public street. So I do things in a way that work for me, and that's okay. There's no blue print. Have you got space to store the car if it's up on stands? Like could you leave it with a cover on on your driveway? I'm in a similar place to you experience-wise (probably a lot less actually) but the way I see it, as long as I can stop working, shut the garage door, and leave it safely, I'll try most things outside of welding and bodywork/paintwork. I would try them if I had space, same as you really. I've got a single garage but no parking, so I just need to make sure I can shut and lock the door. I reckon most of the stuff on that list you could do, as long as you could beg a go on a press to get bushes out etc. Could anyone on here help you press the bushes out? (or air chisel!) I like your thread personally, keep doing what you're doing. Just don't worry so much. Although then you wouldn't be you
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Missed this before! Great looking car and some really nice pictures. Bookmarking this one.
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The boyed up ones of these look really cool, loads of potential. Another vote for keeping/banding the original steels here
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Just took her out for a test drive (re-taxed it to get MOT exemption, still want to get a ticket though as I've sorted everything it failed on) and it's very bumpy. Not at all sure if it's because the shocks are adjusted too stiff, or if it's bouncing off the stops. It does feel like it's doing it at the rear as well though, so I will soften the shocks up and do a few tests, see where that takes me.
Question about bump stops, I've read a few different things. In normal driving, is the car supposed to hit the bump stops, and it be the last part of the travel, or are they a safety thing? Or does it vary with design?
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very nice results. the ride height looks spot on to me...hope you can keep it that way too. Your Halfords boxes look just like our Sears ones over here...very nice and tidy garage space...looks nice. its hard to keep them clean, isnt it?! JP You should have seen it two weeks ago, it was shameful. The car was on four stands, so I was working on that little corner of bench and all my stuff was in the boot of the car, under the car, on the floor, in a pile on the bench. It was shocking, I was so glad yesterday when I could roll her out and tidy up! So I've just been for a drive. First point... very bouncy ride. Unsure at this point if it's because the adjustment on the shocks is too hard, or if it's bouncing off the bump stops. Feels like it's doing it at the rear also, so I will wind the shocks softer all round first. I set them to half way before fitting so I will back them off a couple of clicks each and see if there's any improvement. However apart from being on the bouncy side, it feels infinitely better with all the new stuff on, really happy. Feel like I'm close to finished with this part of the project. Not looking forward to trying to work out what's wrong with the engine/box, it's definitely not my strong suit at all. Just always fantasising about putting a new engine in it, although I know that's a big project and will probably be really hard! Dead set on a brake booster now, and definitely want to get new discs or get mine skimmed. Anything I have to pay for has to wait til next month now though! I'm happy also that I will at least be able to get her to one show which is really local to me and is a big one, so at least she'll get one outing this year
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I love this thing so much. I can't put my finger on what makes it so perfect, but I think it's that it's so original (looking) and old-fashioned but has such a modern 'stance' and attitude about it.
It's just perfect ,everything's perfect.
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Hi all,
I've been rebuilding the front end of my Super Minx lately and it's all gone back together - it's the same as it was previously, but I have fitted bump stops that were missing, and also have replaced the top spring pads with Mustang II items that are considerably (15mm or so) thinner than original.
I haven't driven the car yet as I still need to bleed my brakes, but the bottom wishbone is as good as horizontal - maybe ever so slightly over horizontal - and the bottom bump stops are maybe 15mm from touching. The bump stops are on the wishbones themselves (I'll get pictures tomorrow).
I have two questions basically:
1) Because the bump stops are new, I'm unsure how much closer they are now due to the spring pads, but what's the deal with cutting down bump stops or replacing with smaller polybush types? I am not after great handling, I like the look of low cars, and I don't mind driving 'around' the lowness of it, but I don't want a dangerous car. Also is that sort of clearance even an issue? (I presume it is but I'm not knowledgable about this).
2) Geometry wise, are horizontal or over-horizontal wishbones at rest an issue? I like how the car sits at the moment, but I'm prepared to replace the spring pads with the originals if I've gone past a point where I'm going to cause myself an issue here.
The setup, if it helps is as follows:
Super Minx - same front suspension setup as some Sunbeam Alpines, Sunbeam Tigers, Hillman Minx 6/7 I think, and obviously vogue/sceptre
Gaz shocks made slightly shorter than original
-2" springs - made to spec, not cut
2" blocks on rear.
Just after any knowledge from people more experienced than myself really. Should I just bleed my brakes and give it a drive?
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Well, she's back on her feet: Little bit lower at the front due to new spring pads, but I'm slightly concerned it might be a step too far. The wishbones are basically horizontal, maybe even slightly over, and I reckon I've got about half an inch gap between the bump stop and the ... thing the bump stop hits. I'm going to get a couple of pictures tomorrow and see what people think. Hopefully I can cut the bump stop down and run it like this because I like the look. I haven't driven it yet because a) no MOT (although I could probably sort that online now, but I do want to get a certificate. I don't really agree with the new MOT regs for classics) and b) haven't bled my brakes through yet. I did get the new pipes plumbed in though, will snap some pictures tomorrow, although I managed to lose a load of brake fluid all down the engine bay like a ****. I can do up any nut you want as long as it's not a brake pipe fitting, as soon as it's a brake pipe fitting I lose all motor control and start getting angry! Happy with the way the brake lines run though - they're totally out of the way of any fouling which was really bothering me before as soon as I noticed it. The track rod had obviously knocked/moved the old brake line and it had a kink in it. Also got myself an extra intermediate box the other day, and last night I swung past IKEA to get myself a cupboard. Trying to make as much use of the small space I have as possible, working out pretty well finally:
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You're quite right. Sometimes I should take more so I can put stuff back together though! I get there in the end. Couple more pictures, not much progress really but feels like a big milestone. Brake lines connected up at one end. Hard to get a decent picture but they fit really well, definitely won't be fouling on anything now. New shocks picked up this morning. Much better! Seem really nice quality for the price, went direct to Gaz with measurements etc from stock and requested a slightly shorter shock. Much better pricing than anywhere I've seen selling them also which was a bonus. Saw these on Mr Tiki's thread and thought they were amazing, had to get myself one. Matches my (gear) knob! Ordered a new set of bump stops today also. Got Friday off, so this weekend I should be able to get the rest of the suspension back together, track rods put together, shocks installed, finish connecting up the brake lines and bleed them and then maybe start trying to work out what's wrong with the engine/gearbox.
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I really don't take enough pictures! So since the last post, what have I done... bought a load of stuff, spent a lot of time with a wire brush, made so much mess on the patio that I ended up buying a pressure washer out of guilt... I'm still waiting for my new shocks from Gaz although they should be just about ready I hope, with any luck they'll be here for next weekend. I painted up the rest of the bits, used up most of my Vactan and decided to try Deox Gel on some other stuff. It works amazingly but it's a real pain to use. However it really does work and I saw loads of actual shiny (pitted) steel where it removes the rust as opposed to neutralising/"converting" like Vactan. I experimented with citric acid baths as well and I think next time I do something like this, it's going to be a great big plastic tub and a load of citric acid! Works really well and costs hardly anything. So... pictures. Got the crossmember back on, and put one side back together. I'm not totally happy with the state of the brake discs, I'm currently trying to find someone with stock of discs, otherwise I think I will be getting them skimmed. Someone from here got in touch to let me know a friend of his locally can skim them, and I think I will take him up on it. I measured them and it looks like I've got about 1mm before they hit minimum so I reckon they should have another go in them. I've bent up some brake pipes which I didn't take pictures of, but I'm much happier with the fit. Previously the driver's side brake pipe had been fouling on something as it wasn't very well fitted to the crossmember and the track rod had been knocking it around after the car was lowered - maybe before even. Either way it now sits nice and close to the solid, non-moving parts of the car and is out of harm's way. I did both sides on the front, they aren't connected up to the junction yet but I'll get to that soon. The finish on the parts that I've refurbed is ok - I'm no expert and don't have loads of kit, but degreased, wire brushed, rust treated and hit with a load of hammerite, and underseal on the crossmember. They're much better off than they were before, anyway. 90% of the nuts and bolts going on are new for piece of mind, I found a kit for a sunbeam alpine which uses the same front end. I've also swapped out the stock spring cushions for Mustang II items which are going to drop the car around another inch... maybe inch and a half. I'm really hoping it's not too low as I won't want to be dismantling it to put the stock ones back in, but we'll see! Can't wait to get the shocks and get it back together. Once all this is done, hopefully pretty much as soon as the shocks are ready, Ill be trying to get to the bottom of the running issue.
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May 26, 2018 17:36:04 GMT
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This is ace
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Good info.. to be honest the reason I considered skimming is just that the discs are pretty grotty and there is some pulsing through the pedal. I thought maybe a skim would be a quick and easy way to ensure a good uncontaminated surface but possibly it’s a bit extreme. I’ll try to sand them to good health and then go for new ones if I’m not happy after that.
I think I’ve found a place that can supply, waiting for a quote at the moment. Think they’re going to be £110+ though for a pair
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May 21, 2018 22:06:57 GMT
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Hi all, Anyone know of any engineering companies or similar who can skim my discs off the car on a lathe? I work in Southend so the closer to there the better but anywhere in that part of Essex would be doable. Cheers
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May 13, 2018 18:58:09 GMT
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This is coming along great, it stands out a mile. Big fan
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May 13, 2018 18:46:20 GMT
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First lot of bits painted up. Just Vactan, wire brush, Hammerite. I think I will brush on some underseal to the lower wishbones though, hopefully stop them chipping too much.
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May 11, 2018 17:07:10 GMT
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Calling Seth are these the same as your Hunter? Speedy Spares may be able to provide replacements. I worked it out in the end, the nuts are actually welded to them, and I should have just undone the bolts from the other end! I just thought they were rusted on. Berk. I’ve had no luck finding them so I think I’ll just have to make them up and weld the nuts. The front end I think is the same as a Minx V, later sunbeam Alpine’s, tigers, and obviously sceptre/vogue.
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So the getting carried away continues. I've finally found polybushes for the front - investigated what I'd heard about Sunbeam alpines/tigers having the same front crossmember, and managed to find superflex polybushes for an alpine and match up the OEM part numbers so I've ordered those up. Getting the originals out had just been the biggest pig of a job so far, managed to get two wishbones done today at a mate's workshop. Chisels, mallets, air chisels, torches, the whole kit and caboodle. At least I can start rust treating and painting those two. Crossmember got rust treated and undersealed over the weekend, looking much better imo. Got to clean up all the fixings and see if any need replacing, all the belville washers and stuff are pretty mullered so I may see if I can get suitable replacement nuts for the worst ones while I'm at it. One question though, excuse the poor picture: In this image, the fulcrum pin bolts have a rectangular plate (on top of the fulcrum pin) and the bolts look like they have a bit of a lip in them that fits into the holes in the plate. Both of these plates bent and snapped when I removed the bolts - what are they called? Is it something I can just make up to replace, or should I buy them? I mean.. could I just use washers? I presume if washers were ok, they'd have used them. And out of curiosity... what's the purpose of it?
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