Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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woooo update time! nothing that amazing really though. i followed up on removing the fuel pump cam by making a blanking plate and gasket- and i put a sticker on it. worth an update on its own on here these days aint it? then, i have a total lack of pics for this bit. but, i made some mk2 escort front hubs and discs i bought off SOC fit the lada spindles. this was more straightforward than you may think, i used the ford bearings, amazingly the outer is exactly the same size as the lada one and a simple tophat spacer made the large escort bearing fit the smaller lada spindle, the flange part of the spacer correcting the offset of the disc by about 7mm so it clears the steering arm bolts/caliper bracket, and so the disc alligns with the caliper. it also provides a surface for the larger escort hub seal to run on. i couldnt quite get the caliper alligned right as the caliper was too far back in relation to the disc, so a 1.5mm spacer on each caliper bolt soon sorted that. which means i have a bolt together setup using all stock parts and giving me 4x108PCD. so i can bolt these on- yeah, thats fitment 7x13 et0 with 165/65r13 for those who missed it. oh yeah, and mummy bought me this for my birthday- its more or less identical to the compbrake one and is very good quality, but was 50 quid delivered.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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then, i bought myself these- zzr1000 40mm carbs with ITB filter. i may also have bought a fannymould for twin 40s as well. needs a bit of work as its damaged, but was very cheap. so with the stock carb that is converted to manual choke rhater than water, i now have 3 possible induction setups. nothing like keeping my options open then, ive been messing about getting the engine mounted. most of the previous stuff ive read on the net on this is undoubtedly a load of plums. using the stock lada mounts on the fiat engine is nothing but a pain in the ass, mostly cos it mounts the engine too far back. you cant even get a finger between the head and the firewall. also, its nigh on impossible to fit the engine and box together as one unit cos the engine bay is quite short in length from the slam panel to the firewall compared to the length of the gearbox. this means you need to drop the engine in, then jack up the gearbox from below to join the two. if its too far back, there isnt enough wiggle-room to get it on the spigot straight. so, i sacked off the lada mounts for now, they will be back soon, but adapted a bit. i put the engine where i wanted it rather than where they were telling me to put it, which moved it up a bit for sump clearance, and forward away from the firewall and also moved the exhaust away from the clutch master cyl. i them decided i was best off doing the gearbox mount first as space was tighter down that end, and i could then lift the engine up/dpwn to get the tailshaft angle right. so, i had a look at what mounts i had, and decided the best option was to mod the lada mount a bit and fit that. here it is- (note whats sitting next to it too ) the lada mount actually sits tilted, i needed to level it out so i cut it here- and then redrilled the other hole level with the other one. this makes it an almost-stock part if i need to replace it, it would only take 10 mins to mod up a new one appropriately. but it also sits offset too though, so i had to shorten one side by 15,, and lengthen the other side where the exhaust clearance sweep is. i then fitted it up and redrilled the two mounting bolt holes in the floor a bit so they were in the right place. handily, they still come out in the spreader plates so all i needed to do was weld em down so they don't spin. no more pics of stuff ive done at the mo, so have some piucs of it sat back on its wheels instead- getting there. slowly....
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EmDee
Club Retro Rides Member
Committer of Autrocities.
Posts: 5,920
Club RR Member Number: 108
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Oct 16, 2012 10:31:25 GMT
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Well you know how I feel about this.
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Oct 16, 2012 12:01:01 GMT
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Very nice. Very nice indeed.
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Oct 16, 2012 19:23:04 GMT
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suck on that one escort/chevette/viva/any other small rwd saloon owners!! shriek! *slaps dez with a limp silk glove* chevettes are coil sprung 4 linked, i wont havent them reviled in such a manner !!
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cianha
Part of things
aka VDubbin
Posts: 923
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Oct 26, 2012 11:15:33 GMT
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Lot of detailed work going in there, nice one Dez!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Oct 26, 2012 15:58:54 GMT
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this looks pretty awesome, certainly makes me think about ladas in a different way than i used to haha
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Oct 26, 2012 22:58:27 GMT
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suck on that one escort/chevette/viva/any other small rwd saloon owners!! shriek! *slaps dez with a limp silk glove* chevettes are coil sprung 4 linked, I wont havent them reviled in such a manner !! no they're not they're odd in that they're half of one setup and half of another, with the disadvantages of both and far more parts than there really need to be. they're a torque tube with floating lower links, coil springs and a panhard rod. traditionally a torque tube is used with a wishbone setup and a single tranverse leaf, like in a model A ford, as one spring can then spring both wheels, and there is very few moving parts. what they loose in sophistication, they gain in outright simplicity., although it is a VERY basic setup, and will never handle massively well due to excessive body roll. a chevette having coils springs means the springs arent capable of lateral location, so it needs a panhard rod as well, and the axle non-centering problems it brings with it. the lower links are floating in relation to the axle because of packaging constraints.( lower links are a different length to the torque tube). personally i think theyd have been better off loosing the torque tube and adding two top links to give it a true 5-link setup, as ive seen a few chevette owners do using a ford axle. but hey, GM did what they did, probably due to cost. but, cheers for all the comments though everyone, hoping to get back around to doing something on this soon, once work/house isnt as manic!
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MiataMark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,961
Club RR Member Number: 29
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shriek! *slaps dez with a limp silk glove* chevettes are coil sprung 4 linked, I wont havent them reviled in such a manner !! no they're not they're odd in that they're half of one setup and half of another, with the disadvantages of both and far more parts than there really need to be. they're a torque tube with floating lower links, coil springs and a panhard rod. traditionally a torque tube is used with a wishbone setup and a single tranverse leaf, like in a model A ford, as one spring can then spring both wheels, and there is very few moving parts. what they loose in sophistication, they gain in outright simplicity., although it is a VERY basic setup, and will never handle massively well due to excessive body roll. a chevette having coils springs means the springs arent capable of lateral location, so it needs a panhard rod as well, and the axle non-centering problems it brings with it. the lower links are floating in relation to the axle because of packaging constraints.( lower links are a different length to the torque tube). personally I think theyd have been better off loosing the torque tube and adding two top links to give it a true 5-link setup, as ive seen a few chevette owners do using a ford axle. but hey, GM did what they did, probably due to cost. but, cheers for all the comments though everyone, hoping to get back around to doing something on this soon, once work/house isnt as manic! What about Avengers and Sunbeams they're 4 link aren't they, I thought that was the advantage they had when they went rallying over Escorts etc? Consults "Rally cars, Given the works" Talbot Sunbeam-Lotus "...the homologated Salisbury 4HA axle is located by the normal 4 bar linkage..."
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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tigran
Club Retro Rides Member
In rust we trust. Amen.
Posts: 6,444
Club RR Member Number: 142
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Quick bump to this, out of the sheer excellent-ness of the whole thing.
The rear quarter is the most superb angle as well - with the mix of that wheel/stance/square rear
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1964 Rover P5 i6 1987 BMW 525e - The Rusty Streak 1992 Micra K10 2001 BMW E46 316i 2002 BMW E46 330Ci 2013 BMW F31 320d 2018 BMW G31 530d
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no they're not they're odd in that they're half of one setup and half of another, with the disadvantages of both and far more parts than there really need to be. they're a torque tube with floating lower links, coil springs and a panhard rod. traditionally a torque tube is used with a wishbone setup and a single tranverse leaf, like in a model A ford, as one spring can then spring both wheels, and there is very few moving parts. what they loose in sophistication, they gain in outright simplicity., although it is a VERY basic setup, and will never handle massively well due to excessive body roll. a chevette having coils springs means the springs arent capable of lateral location, so it needs a panhard rod as well, and the axle non-centering problems it brings with it. the lower links are floating in relation to the axle because of packaging constraints.( lower links are a different length to the torque tube). personally I think theyd have been better off loosing the torque tube and adding two top links to give it a true 5-link setup, as ive seen a few chevette owners do using a ford axle. but hey, GM did what they did, probably due to cost. but, cheers for all the comments though everyone, hoping to get back around to doing something on this soon, once work/house isnt as manic! What about Avengers and Sunbeams they're 4 link aren't they, I thought that was the advantage they had when they went rallying over Escorts etc? Consults "Rally cars, Given the works" Talbot Sunbeam-Lotus "...the homologated Salisbury 4HA axle is located by the normal 4 bar linkage..." my avenger estate is 5 linked I think! my viva is 4 linked! anyhow that looks the jizz
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Last Edit: Jan 3, 2013 16:33:28 GMT by ianboyd
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no they're not 2x trailing arms 1x torque tube 1x panhard rod like i said, 4 link
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Mar 22, 2013 21:11:19 GMT
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so yeah, 5 months later, and i remember 1.i still own this, and 2.it still don't work.
ive broken my only working car, then scrapped it and am using the missus lupo, so now would be a rather good time to make it work so i can use the insurance policy ive got ticking away, as i can transfer it back onto this. and the missus wont be constantly reminding me what an inconvenience it it is having her car. shes pretty bloody tolerant really.
considering its got no rear suspension, no steering, the front springs are cut too low for the new front tyres so the arches are sat on them, it has no brakes at any corner, or a master cyl, or any lines connecting any of them together anyway, no exhaust, no engine mounts, no fuel lines, no battey tray to put a battery in or wiring to connect to it, no rad plumbing, no clutch hydraulics and no induction system, as well as no tax or test and a hole in the drivers floor/outrigger that had been thoroughly bodged for the last test, this isnt exactly going to be a weekends work.........
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Mar 22, 2013 22:50:52 GMT
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so ideally, i need to make it easily movable first. its been sat outside the workshop over the winter, i was using the forklift to shunt it around and pick it up to work on it, which has decided to break, so now getting it rolling is quite a priority. i decided to concentrate on the rear end first. to do this i need to get some suspensionz on it. its got the 5-link attaching the escort axle to it, just nothing holding the car up off said axle. it had cut lada springs on the back when i got it, but as these kinda fell out quite a bit when it was jacked up, and the shocks were bolloxed too, it kinda made sense to turret it and go to coilovers (in my head anyway ). so first, i cut out the old bumpstops and spring locating dimples from the centre of the spring pans- leaving me with a hole to thread the coilovers through. i had to open these out a bit later on, but i put the turrets on first them open the holes up to match. the coilovers I'm running are just some cheapy mk1 golf ones, but theres plenty of upgrade options out there later on if i fancy it. next i needed some tubing about 4.5" diameter to run them in. whats that on the bench? its a length of 4.5" diameter 2mm wall CDS tubing. it is once ive chopped off a few unnecessary bits anyway- to that i attached a 3,, top plate, which i then cut a 3" hole in and attached the golf/polo strut tops id previously hacked out a car in the scrappy. here it is offered up- and then welded in- you can see i had to take the back seat out to do this, for access to the back side, and so i didnt set it on fire. i welded about 3/4 of the way round from the top, then the bit i couldnt get to at the outer edge is done from underneath. all done, they tuck in nicely under the parcel shelf. and from underneath, they sit nicely in the stock spring pockets within the inner arch. the axle mounts were quite straightforward really- although i was expecting them to need to go the other way, but they bound up really badly that way, the axle moves fore/aft more than expected, so they have to go this way. straight off the jack with the wound up 1" from the lowest setting- as you can see, it was getting dark by this time! it looks like it was a quick job, but to do both sides took a day and a half!
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EmDee
Club Retro Rides Member
Committer of Autrocities.
Posts: 5,920
Club RR Member Number: 108
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Mar 22, 2013 22:53:29 GMT
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I feel that you can extinguish some of those issues without too much trouble Can't wait to see this finished, although feel free to take your time, it'll be a while before I can afford to part you from it! edit: Damn i wrote this post before the fire extinguisher update! It will make more sense if you imagine it one post higher up the page ;D
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Last Edit: Mar 22, 2013 22:55:47 GMT by EmDee
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funkyhunk
Part of things
Old Ford's R Us
Posts: 265
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It's too bad you sanded off the paint from the fire extinguisher tubes, It would have been a fun topic of conversation at meets when people wondered how you converted the rear suspension to run coilovers
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Anglia68
Posted a lot
Powered By Boredom.
Posts: 2,049
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Genius idea using the fire extinguishers and solves a problem for me too. I shall now be in search for one myself. ;D
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,410
Club RR Member Number: 52
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Mar 23, 2013 13:13:36 GMT
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Inspired use of a fire extinguisher! This just keeps getting better and better. Any more suspension plans or are you just wanting to get it back on the road now?
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Mar 23, 2013 13:29:38 GMT
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ha! got you on that one mart A68, take a magnet with you, its surprising how many are ally these days- finding a steel one actually proved a bit of a challenge! qwerty, ive done pretty much everything I planned to do sus/steering wise. the rear is exactly as I wanted it, with the exception of maybe adding a brace between the turrets. at the other end, the rack conversion is done bar for cutting down and re-threading the trackrods. only bit that really needs any further work is the front springing, I either need some niva springs (they're the same dimensions as riva ones, but thicker wire gauge so stiffer), or to convert it to coilovers too, but its ridiculously tight on space so I'm not sure if thats even possible without major re-engineering. ive seen em converted to mac strut at the front, but going from twin wishbone to struts is quite a backwards step in my eyes. means a lot of inner wing work too. the major work needed chassis wise now is the brakes. ive got the basis of the system laid down (sierra calipers with fiesta discs out back, mk2 escort discs/hubs with lada calipers up front), but I need to buy a balance bar and fab up a bias pedal box to make it all work.
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Last Edit: Mar 23, 2013 13:30:54 GMT by Dez
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,410
Club RR Member Number: 52
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Mar 23, 2013 13:46:39 GMT
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Going to be a fantastic spec once its done. Looking forward to seeing it progress.
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