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Sept 13, 2018 9:03:13 GMT
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I want to put my trailer in here  The opening is 7ft wide as is my trailer I want to notch this post by 3.5cm. It is 11.5 cm wide and 28cm deep.  It stands 10ft high and supports this  I don't want it to fall down. Would a wooden beam on the opposite side help? Or would it be ok? |
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hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member
avatar by volksangyl
Posts: 1,081
Club RR Member Number: 207
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Widening garage openinghairymel
@hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member 207
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Sept 13, 2018 18:29:18 GMT
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if its just the bit lined in black then i doubt it would fall down. however i personally would either bolt through a metal plate on the other side from the ground and up past the notch the same distance, or probably better as you seem to suggest bolt a suitably sized bit of timber to the unnotched side.
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whats that burning smell?
oh curse word :-(
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Sept 13, 2018 18:33:21 GMT
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Yes, thanks. I think i'll find something like a scaffold board to bolt to the other side  |
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Sept 13, 2018 20:26:33 GMT
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I wouldn't use a scaff board unless you use 3 of them top to bottom, personally I would scrounge up an old sleeper and bolt it up the un notched side to be on the safe side, the timber you are considering notching already has big ish chunks out where it's been used previously, without knowing what load (if any) it's carrying it's better to be on the safe side.
If you want to be mega over the top M12 or larger coach bolts with the square washers under the nuts and dog tooth connectors on the bolts between the 2 timbers are the way to go.
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Sept 13, 2018 20:37:39 GMT
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i may have a sleeper. I'm not sure how long it is. Probably standard sleeper length i guess How would you bolt them together? I was thinking about long self tapping bolts like this  But you'd drill right through both pieces? What about bracing so the bolts pass either side and metal pieces hold them together? |
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Sept 13, 2018 20:46:17 GMT
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To complicate things there is already this piece on the other side  The beam could well be very old and someone already thought this was necessary But i reckon if i replaced this with a wider, longer piece it might still be ok |
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Sept 20, 2018 17:02:44 GMT
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2018 17:14:42 GMT by dodgerover
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Sept 20, 2018 23:47:02 GMT
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I wouldn't expect the extra piece to be concreted in but i'm not sure. I don't know if the main support is concreted in, but i wouldn't be surprised Thanks for the info on the screws Yes the large piece is the main central support |
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Sept 21, 2018 22:51:19 GMT
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Looking at your original picture on a decent sized screen, it would appear from what I can see that the sleeper is holding everything up! I can't tell from the photo if it's holding everything up (critical) or if it's just extra bracing to stop the wall flexing (so is almost optional), without knowing for sure it's difficult to advise  Looking at your plans, I'd be happy to cut the section out as it shouldn't weaken the post too much. Best add the supporting timber before you cut just on case  Other ideas - 1. It looks like the trailer will still be a very tight fit, can you make the trailer narrower (maybe make the mudguards removable ??) 2. Is the post actually needed or is it there "just in case" (ie what will happen if you just remove it?) 3. Would it be easier to make a new door opening on the left of the post (ie change the current "front wall" into a "lefthand door" ? (this only makes sense if the new lefhand door would be bigger than the original right hand door.) 4. How difficult would it be to loosen the top of the post (prybar?), drill the concrete around the base (SDS breaker?) and remove the post, then drill a new hole n the floor making the doorway about a foot wider, then refit the original post in the new position? |
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Sept 27, 2018 12:11:47 GMT
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Looking at your original picture on a decent sized screen, it would appear from what I can see that the sleeper is holding everything up! I can't tell from the photo if it's holding everything up (critical) or if it's just extra bracing to stop the wall flexing (so is almost optional), without knowing for sure it's difficult to advise Looking at your plans, I'd be happy to cut the section out as it shouldn't weaken the post too much. Best add the supporting timber before you cut just on case Other ideas - 1. It looks like the trailer will still be a very tight fit, can you make the trailer narrower (maybe make the mudguards removable ??) 2. Is the post actually needed or is it there "just in case" (ie what will happen if you just remove it?) 3. Would it be easier to make a new door opening on the left of the post (ie change the current "front wall" into a "lefthand door" ? (this only makes sense if the new lefhand door would be bigger than the original right hand door.) 4. How difficult would it be to loosen the top of the post (prybar?), drill the concrete around the base (SDS breaker?) and remove the post, then drill a new hole n the floor making the doorway about a foot wider, then refit the original post in the new position? i think the beam is supporting the middle of the roof at least. It may also support the weight of the doors and runners My trailer has a flat bed and the wheels are underneath. The only slightly extra things are the latch hooks on the side  Unfortunately it's not my garage and i am sharing it with someone who parks their car in the other side. So moving / removing the post is not an option At the moment it looks like i need a suitable brace and then think about cutting the notch |
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