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Feb 20, 2019 18:06:31 GMT
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Plastic parts were a big problem on mine, for example 6 times it had failed window regulators. Fortunately its so common rebuild kits are very cheap. Suspension joints throughout the car were the real biggie though, just everything. Be afraid if the back end of one is creaking or the front knocking.
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Feb 19, 2019 20:12:30 GMT
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I had an S Type a few years ago, although it was only a 3 litre. I wanted an S Type R but when a friends Uncle died and I got the 3 litre for not much I thought I'd have it then look for an R.
It was an utterly appalling car, the least durable car I've ever had, an unbelievable amount of things broke and I sold it after a couple of years of torture to the first bloke who offered anything (£440), I told him that it was a curse word car and his choice.
I heard that they early ones (as I had) were very bad and they improved later, but I would never buy another one.
Last September I bought a VXR8, one of your other options, ignoring money its worth ten of any S Type, vastly better car even if as you would expect its less timber and more plastic. More fun, more smiles, better noise and lots of people want to talk about it.
The VXR8 is known for lack of rust prevention, and thats some work I need to carry out, but the S Type which was 11 years old at the time I bought it, (same as the VXR is now) was rotten, it failed its MOT on loads of rot after I sold it according to the MOT history online. I welded up some rails to the top of the jack to spread the load as I knew I could never trust the sill to lift the car.
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Last Edit: Feb 19, 2019 20:14:29 GMT by chris y
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Feb 19, 2019 19:52:14 GMT
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I don't have loads of experience but I painted all of the alloy bits of my Carlton engine with etch primer, silver base and 2k laquer, they are all spotless 2 1/5 years later. I do think that prep was the key though as they had loads of corrosion that would have come back if not removed thoroughly, so I took them to the local alloy wheel refurbisher and just asked him to clean them, they came back spotless, better than expected. I then painted them asap. imgur.com/dWnJxc6<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="dWnJxc6"><a href="//imgur.com/dWnJxc6"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script> I cant work out how to add a pic, sorry, the link might show you the cleaned parts. Before cleaning had 20 yrs plus of salty water corrosion.
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Last Edit: Feb 19, 2019 19:57:28 GMT by chris y
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Feb 18, 2019 17:29:35 GMT
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Hello Tony, thanks for posting.
The bike scene always seems to have had many specific sub scenes, well, way back when I was more into them. I hoped there would be something now that would cover anything old and / or modified, a bit like RR is for cars.
If not I don't think I'll bother to sign up to anything, something too specific wouldnt be interesting for long.
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Feb 18, 2019 13:16:24 GMT
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Maybe I shouldn't ask this here as it's not car related, but I guess there will be lots of people on here who also like bikes. My question is whether there is a bike equivalent of RR? I like RR philosophy and the variety of cars, I'm starting to be interested in my bikes again and would like to find the same but for bikes.
I should have posted a pic but I'm at work and wanted to ask, I'll add something later.
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Feb 17, 2019 17:59:36 GMT
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Thanks gents. It really makes it worth posting if someone enjoys seeing it.
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Feb 12, 2019 19:41:02 GMT
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In general, depends on the staff, but I've been told before that the moving parts aren't covered,but they do a repair kit. Just, er, don't assume that the repair kit is free and walk out of the shop with it, else you might get chased across the car park by a slightly cross employee. Hypothetically. Ahem. The moving parts weren't included but they changed it so now they are. Their excellent guarantee helped me make a decision to buy a tool chest and fill it with their tools when I decided it was time to treat myself last year.
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Great resto. Well done on completing getting it back on the road without killing yourself. Looking at the dash and your additional temp guages (which are great by the way) - you should have a look at a JVC Chameleon stereo to go with it all. Thanks for that. I didnt get why you recommended the JVC at first glance, but after a better look and seeing a video thats a great thing, I might keep an eye open for one at a sensible price. I want a stereo that I can use with music on USB but looks in keeping, I need to read more but that one might be a possibility.
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It certainly is. There are more readily available 240mm plates than Lotus Carlton though, the issue is that they may have to be fitted backwards. I'm not entirely convinced that running one backwards is a problem though, the markings may be to suit each individual application, so in a particular car it will only fit one way. I know that Helix clutches can run both ways, but unfortunately I found Helix a pain to deal with, not a pain, more completely unhelpful.
To be honest I havent ran out of options yet, its time to sort out which is the best option to try next that I'm struggling for.
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There’s a reason it says “FLYWHEEL SIDE” - the torque reaction springs in the centre won’t work backwards (just probably rattle and judder like a sod). Which is exactly where I am now.
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getrag boxes on opel vaux are 25x14, i.e calibra turbo, manta/ascona. only trouble there is the biggest plate is 228mm Yes indeed, I've been considering putting a C20LET plate in, there are two considerations - Its 228mm as you say, so a 6mm band around the outside of the cover plate and flywheel wouldnt be used. I really don't know if that would be a problem. It would have to be fitted back to front because the sprung hub doesnt fir into a C30SE (Carlton 24v) cover plate, it does fit in the recess in the TTV flywheel though. I'm fairly sure this doesnt matter.
I believe there is a SAAB part that might fit, I'm working on that idea.
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I understand the clutch problem now, so is that one of the TTV flywheels? if it is did they just use the Monza/Senator A 12V sprung type disc? Yes, its a TTV flywheel, which I'm very happy with, great engineering at a reasonable price. I had the friction plate made by C&G Motorsport, I don't want to go into the details here and make a statement that its no good, the first reason being I cant be 100% certain (although feel that I am) and the other is that I never approached them about the problem so they havent had a chance to respond. At the time I put the car on the road I first spent weeks looking for anything that could be vibrating or could be loose, then when I ruled out everything else and the logical cause was the clutch I couldnt bear the thought of taking it apart again and as its more a nuisance than a problem and I've been able to drive the car, driving around the problem , therefore I decided to do nothing. Accepting that, now its necessary to take it to bits anyway I might as well solve the problem, finding a friction plate isnt easy though. Do you know if there is a suitable Monza / Senator plate? I'm looking for a 240mm plate with 14 spline centre and suitable for more that 200 lb/ft torque.
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surprised on the clutch as the disc is solid, perhaps its the DMF as they fail, I do have an LUK 3 piece kit that I was saving for mine if you get stuck The standard setup is as you describe, but I've got a solid lightweight flywheel and sprung centred clutch fitted. If you want to well your kit I'd be interested though, apart from the friction plate its correct for this car and I have another GSi. Of course if you have one you shouldnt sell your kit. Thanks for the offer though, very kind.
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Jan 31, 2019 17:42:56 GMT
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I have to apologise for the lack of updates.
No major work has been done since the car became legal again, basically its still on the road and in use most days. I've done a load of miles in it and I love it.
Since being on the road I fitted a wideband lambda kit, its a PLX setup and its great, I'll sort out a pic. I'd highly recommend them, great product, touch screen and various modes etc, and great aftersales support. After quite a while it seemed to pack up, I emailed PLX at what was out of normal hours in the USA but I still received prompt replies, and basically they described the very easy factory reset procedure and couldnt have been more helpful.
I've used it on one track day, the last charity track day at RAF Marham, which was great, nice straight long enough to pass 140 indicated mph.
The only source of real trouble is the clutch, the friction plate I'm certain isnt up to the job, as in the sprung hub is rated for far less torque than the car has, I have good reason to think this and am not happy with the supplier. Basically from day 1 its chattered like hell at low and mid revs with maybe half throttle or more. Anyway, unrelated the thrust bearing is playing up, my own fault for fitting a used one so now is the time to replace the lot but I'm having a really difficult time finding parts.
Next steps are a little bit of bodywork, I welded new rear arches in it in 2010, in October outdoors and painted them in the garden. To be fair they are very well fitted and look good but I did nothing about stone chip protection and rust prevention so now more than 8 years later there is bubbling. I'm disappointed that I have to go back to something I did then but the plan in 2010 was to get one last MOT then after a year scrap it, hence no care taken with long term protection.
If I think of anything else I'll add it, and I'll look for some pics.
Thanks for the interest, and apologies again for not updating when people are kind enough to be interested.
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2019 17:45:03 GMT by chris y
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Jan 29, 2019 17:29:15 GMT
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I've got a Newarc TIG welder, but I'm going to say no more as I've hardly used it and I really need to learn how to. Its said to be a good machine but I have no idea and I got it used.
The real reason I posted was that like Slater I had trip issues when switched on, I solved it by simply changing the standard type B breaker to a type C, same current rating. They can take a higher instantaneous current without tripping, it seems some machines have quite an inrush.
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Jan 24, 2019 10:07:49 GMT
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I agree. I remember at the time we changed to unleaded my astra pinked a lot, a simple manual retard of the ignition by turning the distributor solved it.
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I've been to a spring machine machine manufacturer in Germany and seen lots of the newer machines operating. They are all fascinating although much faster nowadays. When someone developed that one they must have been pleased with themselves.
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It might be best to check the MOT requirements, I'm sure its online. However, I've had side mounted years ago and I'm fairly sure the requirement is just for it to be visible from the rear.
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I cant see why the charger wouldnt work given time.
You need to charge at 14v or a bit more, but it looks like your charger does that, you just need to give it more time, I'd be leaving it at the very least overnight. Once you disconnect the charger and wait for an hour or so the battery should be at least 12.6, maybe nearer 13 if very healthy. If it drops off too low its the battery getting tired not the charger.
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Dec 21, 2018 15:32:35 GMT
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To prevent problems with condensation when painting I also use a radiant heater to heat the object before and after painting.
The evaporation of the solvent cools the object you are painting which causes condensation while the paint is being applied and is drying, which is what I think causes microblisters later, the radiant heater prevents this.
For this reason its no good painting in the cold and then taking the object to a warm place to dry, its too late.
It also helps the paint to dry and you to feel warm better than any other type of heater I've experienced.
I'm no expert, maybe a proper painter can confirm or otherwise.
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