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Is it the model with the Sensodrive gearbox? If so, it could be that. Cleaning the throttle body and resetting the auto adaptives would be a good start, provided you don’t have any other fault codes to deal with. Is yours a VVT version or a normal one? Another area to look at if it is. Also, be wary of cheap coil packs on TU’s. I’m not sure if the 16V uses the ignition phase detection system but the 8V does and cheap coils play havoc with it and often throw a code.

Sounds like maybe 2 issues here. Temperature sensor is showing as wrong resistance if the gauge immediately jumps to normal on ignition on. I’d be looking into that if there are no actual other symptoms. Possibly the pump impeller is adrift, doing that along with a flush and new stat can’t possibly hurt.

Do you not see this?

Curious as to why you’d need a switch rather than use the radios amp remote output to turn the amp off when the radio isn’t powered? Mind you being able to isolate the remote lead isn’t a terrible idea.

Now I have a topper for the bed, means I can sleep in it (provided the weather doesn’t come in the tailgate. Stayed at TAB in it at the end of Jan, admittedly with a -30° survival limit sleeping bag and a small oil radiator. Snug.



Anyway, update. In my hoard of spares was a tach cluster. I had a nose at that today as I had the facia off to do some work on the alarm/cdl.
Found someone had cut the tracks on the lamps for the SRS, Belt warning and Security LEDS and removed the ABS bulb. Initially, as the boards superficially appeared the same I swapped them over to the tach front panel but that left me with a tachometer that displayed the fuel level and a fuel gauge that showed the oil pressure. Funny that all the gauges are driven with the same PWM protocol and step motors.

So I plugged the tach panel in instead. In a bizarre twist of fate the milage is within 500 miles difference higher on the tach panel, so I can live with that. So I repaired the tracks.



Testing..



Cleaned and fitted. Had to swap the lens from the old cluster as it was badly marked on the tach dash, as well as the PRND panel blank as the tach came from an auto. But looks smart now.



Gave the interior a quick swizzle with the vacuum after fitting a new drivers door seal. Always torn where people get in and out.



And with that, when someone complains about how big SUVs have got, bear in mind this is only a mid-size 1/2 tonne truck.

Not a problem I've encountered thus far. The 206 seems to be very much a lego set of parts in as much as stuff like the front panel will accept the cooling pack of any model etc. All rear axles are the same excepting the stub axle setup, drums with or without ABS (usually just supplied with) or disc. Definitely something I'd come across on other older PSA stuff though.

If the focus shape floats your boat, don’t discount the 206, various hot models were made, and they cost buttons to maintain. I replaced the heater matrix and radiator in mine with change from a £20 from Euro car part’s close-out stock. The hatch (sedan, weirdly) ran until 2010 so you can find a really tidy example for not a lot. They are huge fun to throw around.
Ours is a wagon, for practicality reasons, but even then, best looking compact estate in its class IMO.

Ahh, never mind man, was just good seeing you! It’s a heavy trailer, it’s nearly entirely metal. The big stick wrecker should be quite a brute too as most the of the wrecking gear, body aside, is going to be steel for outright strength. I was going to bring the Mercedes Unimog wrecker to TAB but our 206SW broke down conveniently outside work where I do all the car mending wanting a starter so was running late to leave and didn’t grab it. Another time

Piccie

Ahh, could be a good reason one is silver but that reason could be it’s from another set of wheels to make a set. I’d be torn on what to do there if it were me. 😬