adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jul 14, 2020 15:48:40 GMT
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the VVTL-I was so tiring everyday, especially on motorways/long journeys! On lift on a back road brilliant fun, everywhere else, not so much. To be honest that is a good point, and the thing that started to annoy me about mine when I was dailying it. Toyota did put the Lift transition point too high in the rev range really, if it was maybe even 500rpm lower it would have been less "peaky" to drive for sure. Then again with an intake and exhaust, it was a fun screamer on track!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jul 13, 2020 16:21:31 GMT
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An alternative 4/5 seat MR2 could also be a Corolla T Sport Not that I'm biased at all Not particularly retro though I'll admit.. Could even get a Compressor model in OP's budget!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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What a bonkers thing, love it. I particularly like how its still running on SU's
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Small car ideas?adam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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I was in a similar position helping my girlfriend get a cheap car last year, ended up getting her a 1.2 Fiat Grande Punto for about 800 I think. Not the lowest of low in terms of tax but its been a perfectly decent car and you can get them pretty cheap
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Went back and had a look at the facebook post I found that pic from but it didn't mention what the wheels were. Do look similar to the OZ's though I think with those Corolla's, much like a lot of unloved 90s stuff, it takes quite a bit of vision to see the end result as they're not very inspiring to begin with. I think they did a hot version in this generation but very rare and hard to get hold of. I imagine a Celica/Corolla T-Sport 190 swap would make them quite fun. G6 or G6R I think was the slightly faster version? 2ZZ from a T-Sport would go nicely! I'm sure I've seen one with a 3S-GTE swapped in as well I really like that, don't think ive seen those wheels before, they really suit it. Dare I say it, a better and cheaper option to the equivalent Honda Civic? Certainly doesn't seem possible to get an equivalent Civic for less than a grand as easily given their popularity now. The main Civics that come up are these type www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-Honda-Civic-1-6-SE-5dr-a-c-Auto-Hatchback-Petrol-Automatic/124246681423?hash=item1cedade74f:g:-q8AAOSwoqVfAAfQWhich I think are more related to the Rover 400/45? I wonder if that means a VVC K Series or KV6 could be swapped in...
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Last Edit: Jul 5, 2020 17:15:43 GMT by adam73bgt
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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1973 MGB GT- Wings 29/5adam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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No big update but just keeping this ticking along until I have the funds to make proper progress again. Gave the timing chain cover the crackle black treatment with a bit of white model paint on the timing marks to make them stand out Found where I'd hidden my old gauge holder (after ordering then having to quickly cancel the order for a new one) so mocked it up in the centre console again with the new gauges. I really need to get on with paint stripping the upper dashboard and glovebox lid, but its a messy job so not one I'm particularly looking forward to! I did make another purchase though. Previously I've always run a modern radio in the MG because I like having bluetooth etc., while the car is never going to have amazing audio (and I'm hoping the engine will be the main aural attraction) I did want to do something a little different this time with the head unit. So I got onto everyone's favourite auction site and scored this It's a NOS unit, never been fitted in a car as far as I can see. It is unfortunately missing a volume/tone knob but that can be sorted. It's vaguely era correct, in searching for a wiring diagram for it, I found it in a copy of the Argos catalogue from 1984! Safe to say that I paid a fair bit less than the new price for it so I'm happy with that. Not tested it as working yet but shouldn't be a problem, my plan is to retrofit a bluetooth module into it, possibly in line with the cassette deck so it should look all retro from the outside but have that modern usability. The other slight problem I have is it doesn't fit in the hole in the dash.. I think my plan is to get a flat piece of acrylic or similar, mount the radio to that then stick it to the back of the console, will see if that looks OK or a bit odd.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Sad but understandable, next years show should be something special considering the amount of spannering time the lack of show season has given us this year!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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A quick update. Spoke to my mate with the lathe, next week we should be having a look at making some sort of sleeve to resolve the front coilover issue so that should be that sorted. I got my tyres and wheels sorted out so that I've got the wheel and tyre combo's that I'm planning to run now. To recap this means 17"x8" front wheels with 215/45 r17 tyres and 17"x9.5" rear wheels with 235/45 r17 tyres. The fronts I'm not too worried about but I knew on the rears that the 9.5" wheels might be pushing things a bit; the tyres are stretched slightly but it's very subtle which is what I wanted. I do need to roll the arch lip (or in the case of the rusted areas, rebuild then roll the lip ) and the ride height may be able to come down a smidge, but otherwise that is about perfect, so I'm very happy with that. No photos but another job I sorted was to make the centre caps for the RAYS fit. Ever since I had them and the wheel centres powdercoated, they've never fit together quite right, so I did a bit of sanding to make the caps fit and sprayed a bit of clear lacquer on the bare alloy bits to stave off any corrosion. I've also bought some shorter "tuner" wheel nuts so that the caps will actually fit over them! Just in the process of sorting out a tool to tighten down the big centre cap nuts now. As it was raining today, I decided to have a look at a job inside the car which I've been meaning to do for ages. Working out why the rear demist doesn't work. A while back I tried a different relay to see if that was the issue but it didn't fix it. There was a break in one of the demister lines which I painted back in but no luck either. With the rear seat and parcel shelf out, it was a good opportunity to check out the wiring for the demister to see if I was getting power there; the connections are hidden behind the C pillar trims which are clipped in place and carefully pull off. This side was fine But what about the passenger side? Well that certainly isn't going to work... The rear screen has been replaced at some point in the past I think which I assume is when this broke. Rather than trying to solder the broken bit back in place, I figured it would be easier to add a little wire, still plugs into the stock wiring loom. So that should be that fixed. Another thing to tick off the list as per below: Other jobs (mostly so I remember what needs doing) are, fit the new clip on the rear screen trim so it seals, paint the two remaining front screen trims and fit, front coilovers as mentioned, bleed the brakes, trans oil and filter change, investigate/fix the rear heated screen, remove the rear bumper to assess the extent of the rust, general rust repair, get the RAYS wheels fitted, trim the rusted exhaust heatshield, maybe replace the back box, fit the new radiator and fit the new AC condensor The brakes are semi bled, need doing again though as the travel is looong. While I've got the car in the air I should be able to do the transmission fluid change, sort the heatshield and probably start tackling the radiator and condensor. Front coilovers should be sorted next week hopefully. The more jobs I tick off, means I'm getting closer to having to sort out the rust.. I've already started scoping out cheap mig welders in preparation
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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I don't have any experience of them, but might be worth looking at a unit from an MX5? They must be pretty compact to fit in the earlier ones and its a common car (with owners potentially ditching the AC for lighter weight) so may be easy/cheap to pick bits up?
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jun 29, 2020 20:34:22 GMT
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There were two ball bearings within mine when I took it apart One went in the "cup" at the end of the main shaft that is at the bottom of the compressor body And the other went in this recess further up the shaft to lock the rotor in place to the shaft Hope that helps!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jun 26, 2020 15:27:58 GMT
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On closer inspection, the Alfa doesn't appear to have had an MOT since at least 2006 or whenever the DVLA MOT check goes back to... So a bit of a risk, but a lovely looking risk all the same
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jun 26, 2020 14:55:12 GMT
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The Prelude reminds me actually, thinking again of unloved 90s coupes, there were two offerings from Mitsubishi that never got the same attention as their competitors. Firstly the FTO, another case of "ew front wheel drive" and "ew (mostly) auto", like the Prelude they seemed to suffer from some questionable bodykit and wheel choices in period, but are quite rare and cheap now Not much info on this one, but a rare manual and seemingly with MOT for only £700. Hardly concours, but a base to build on? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mitsubishi-Fto-manual-with-rally-art-set-up/324202808140?hash=item4b7bfe434c:g:cfAAAOSwjsxe6743Good looking car with the right mods The other would be the GTO or 3000GT, always seen as the heavy one when compared to the RX-7, Skyline GTR, Supra, NSX etc. they have always lagged behind in price. Some turbo manual cars are starting to command strong prices but nothing compared to a TT Supra or GTR, the cheapest example I could find on a quick ebay search was this no reserve auction car, no MOT but under a grand at the time of writing www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mitsubishi-Gto-No-reserve/193526163127?hash=item2d0f0ee6b7:g:SG8AAOSwjWRe7NkZ
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jun 26, 2020 14:24:46 GMT
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One of the things that has also come up in a similar way recently is the death of the luxury estate car. Once upon a time you could buy a fast and luxurious estate car fairly easily (and somewhat less luxurious but still fast estate car), now days you are basically down to Mercedes, Volvo (if they decide to do an R version) and BMW (but it seems most are diesel now). I guess most companies moved in to the SUV market instead and estates are a little less popular. Talking of which, has anyone seen a Citroen XM Estate for sale recently? I kinda love them in a ridiculous spaceship kind of way. I suppose I can say it now as I don't work there anymore but sales for the estate version of the Jaguar XF (reasonably fast and luxurious) have always been pretty dismal. Not that its a bad car particularly, but market trends have definitely moved towards SUVs One seemingly cheap XM estate about currently www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1222878But before I'd even got to that, this was on the home page... www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1238151Lots of potential..
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jun 25, 2020 18:33:19 GMT
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A picture to better illustrate the differences between a CL7 Accord and KA8 Legend damper strut mount fork thing (Accord on left, Legend on right) Not quite a direct comparison, more a mirror image as thats a drivers side Accord fork with a passenger side Legend fork but we get the idea. the Legend fork is swept back more on both sides, the Accord one where it touches the boot is also a bit thinner than the Legend fork so maybe limiting how much I'd want to grind off.. In any case, the Accord appears to take a 42mm diameter strut compared to around 49mm for the Legend so thats the difference that would have to be taken up if I were to get some sleeves/collars made. Would then just have to measure and machine a groove for the pinch bolt as well
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Last Edit: Jun 25, 2020 18:34:00 GMT by adam73bgt
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jun 25, 2020 12:59:18 GMT
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Ive got a couple of spare front forks of my accord, which I believe are different to the cl ones. If you want, I can measure them for you and if they are any good you can have them. Oo that would be great if you could please? I'll have a measure of the legend forks later on Looks much better with the rust holes nearer the ground. Hope you get the forks issue sorted out easily enough, would shaving off a few mm off with a die grinder be enough without weakening the fork? It certainly helps take the rust further out of the eyeline 😂 I suspect I probably could get away with grinding back the fork a bit, it's not totally clear how much would have to come off, but they're not usable as they are anyway so probably worth a go.. ...could you change the boots for some with small bellows at the forks end ? ...just a thought ... That thought did cross my mind as well, might be possible as long as the Legend doesn't use some odd bellows size. The main thing that puts me off doing that though is that the boots are in quite good condition and it would be a messy job to change them 😂
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jun 22, 2020 22:21:14 GMT
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Few more days, bit more work. I got the nearside rear suspension all torqued up and started looking at setting the suspension height. In the last update, I was way off! So I did a bit of experimentation using a wheel fitted and jacked up to check the ride height after making height adjustments. This is where I got to The fitment in the arch is fine, just need to take a bit more height out. I'm leaving it there for the moment though as I needed to get the car back mobile to move it about on the drive, and I'll wait until I've worked out my wheel/tyre combo. More on that in a moment though. I turned my attention to the front coilovers ahead of getting the car back on its wheels, was going well as the front struts are quite easy to remove, undo the pinch bolt and lower strut bol, separate the strut fork from the strut then remove the strut after undoing the top mount nuts. A page or so back, I mentioned that I was going to use Accord CL7/ Acura TSX lower strut forks. These are the same as the Legend where it mounts to the lower control arm, but take the smaller diameter damper strut body of the coilover. There is an issue however Hard to photograph, but basically the Accord strut fork doesn't sweep back as much as the Legend one so one side of it is very close to and indeed touching the CV boot. It's only light but its enough that I'm sure would end up with a torn boot and grease everywhere. I've looked at mk3 Legend bits but I don't think they'll help, grinding a little bit of the fork to clear is another option but it doesn't feel right to be grinding suspension components! The last option is to put the Legend forks back on, but machine up a sleeve to allow the fitment of the coilover strut. I think I'll end up doing the latter, just need to have a chat with a mate who has a lathe Anyway, I still needed to move the car, so I chucked some wheels on and eventually got it back on the ground It's getting there, the front right is still on just the lowering springs until I sort out the fork issues. The tyres and wheels I put on are a bit of a mish-mash. On the front are the 8j splits that I've had on the rear previously but plan to use on the fronts this time. On the rear are two different wheels which I have for sale currently but gave me an opportunity to play around with some specs; the rear left is a 9j with a 235/45 r17 tyre and the rear right is a different offset 8j with a 225/50 r17 tyre. The rear right tyre is a bit chunky and is basically on the arch lip haha. Ultimately I think I'm going to have the 9.5j splits on the rear with 235/45 r17 tyres (handily I can nick these tyres from the front wheels), then for the fronts it will be the 8j splits with 215/45 r17 tyres which I have in my small stash of 17" tyres So a half finished job on the suspension, once I've got tyres on the right wheels, the front cv boot clearance sorted and found a way to mount the brake pipes to the front struts, it should be about golden on that front! Moving the car around did highlight that the Air Con doesn't appear to be working again, my guess is all the gas has gone, so putting in my new condensor is definitely on the list of jobs to do!
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