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Feb 11, 2022 21:50:06 GMT
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This article is just a vague mash of words which make no sense! What telemetric data are they referring To? Why do consumers want this useless information? How can it possibly have any influence on the repairability of a vehicle?
The telemetric data generated by the wheel speed sensors, pitch/roll/yaw sensors, accelerometers and steering angle sensor etc used by the ESP in your average modern car isn't stored on the body control modules or any other part of the CANbus network and I'm not aware of any vehicles that relay this information back to the manufacturer. And even if they could, this information is largely useless if you're repairing a collision damaged car and wholly irrelevant when carrying out maintenance.
If anyone can clarify, I'd sure like to know...
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Recently I've been watching curious cars. Started out a few years ago as a sales platform for Florida car dealer who gets some interesting stuff in but has developed into a used car review show which contains some weird and wonderful stuff. It's nice to get up close and look at some of the classics that come through and Bill has quite a dry sense of humour which I quite like. It's quite talky but the history of the cars and companies who make them is well covered.
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Jan 12, 2022 20:57:40 GMT
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Turbo conquering mega Eagle is off his nut. Nonchalantly cuts open a clio airbag pyro canister with an angle grinder without wearing any PPE. All in the name of making a cannon!
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Also would have defaulted to the 'Vic. The Austin looks mint anyway.. Take some good before pics in case you win so we can see the difference
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On the German exchange at school we went to the Koln sports museum in which we had a mock boxing match between myself and a mate. It was Killer kerry vs jumbo josh. (Kerry is my surname) Glad you asked, I feel it needs explaining. Bit of a cack username really... ...but probably better than being Jumbo Josh! His last name was Payne so used to get called posh jayne. Not sure which is best really... 😀
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Dec 31, 2021 12:02:00 GMT
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On the German exchange at school we went to the Koln sports museum in which we had a mock boxing match between myself and a mate. It was Killer kerry vs jumbo josh. (Kerry is my surname)
Glad you asked, I feel it needs explaining. Bit of a cack username really...
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The guy repairing the 750 clearly never heard of manufacturer repair methods, self piercing rivets, ADAS calibration, jig data, annealing, work hardening or metal fatigue. Its not about repairing it after the first accident, its about preparing it for the next. Skilled panel beater, but not an educated one. They're total losses for a reason!
As for that wheel.. don't try this at home folks.
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PPG list this formula but not the code for it.. I've also looked on Akzonobel Mixitcloud but no joy.. You could ring round your local bodyshops/paint suppliers and ask if they use Nexa/PPG and ask if they can mix this up for you. They will charge you for the mix (minimum of 250ml IIRC) so you can see the colour for yourself. For an additional fee they could do you a spray out card for it.. *edited to say: I note this code contains the ICI colour code as the code suffix so this is likely to be correct but the twist is that ICI was acquired by AkzoNobel but my AN system doesn't list it while the PPG system does but they're Akzonobels competitor... I've had a manual search for MG and rover to see if there are any crossovers but no joy on that front either. None of my systems list Austin as a manufacturer, presumably because they're too new .. That's all I got, hope it helps!!
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Sept 9, 2021 21:57:12 GMT
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It's not a new thing. It's been going on for years but more prominently in fleet conracts where the whole objective is to keep costs low and you have a bunch of identical vehicles on the road. If one becomes uneconomical to repair then all of a sudden you have a load of major vehicle components; panels, lights, trim and mouldings etc hanging around. Obvious solution is to use them to fix the rest of the fleet! The advent of brexit and then covid put a huge strain on the parts supply chain and parts were taking literally months to arrive. This caused unacceptable delays for policy holders and inefficiency and disruption for bodyshop production. Hence green parts found their way into mainstream private insurance collision repairs. I feel I must point out to the masses that green parts are NOT the default option for insurers. They are used as last resort when it is not possible to source new part or to make a temporary repair and there is no non-OE option available. They are also never used for safety critical systems ie SRS and suspension. I might post more on this when I have time as I'm sure some find the concept alarming. Kind regards, RR's resident motor insurance claims engineer
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Jul 30, 2021 22:28:57 GMT
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In answer to your question: I would start by running a slitting disk down the stud to allow you to chisel the nuts off the studs without turning them. Removal of the wheel is the main obstacle here.
OK, so you may end up doing some (more) damage to the rim but as far as I am concerned the studs and nuts are already scrap and re-use of the wheel is tbc upon removal and inspection.
Check your PCD's are correct and get your new studs in the hub with some weld on the back if the hub can be re-used.
I'm interested to see what the root cause was/is...
Good luck! 👍
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Dec 22, 2020 21:29:10 GMT
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With regards to future corrosion it's a bit of a double edge sword but if you're using good quality materials and seam seal it etc properly then you'll have fewer problems overall. If you want the VW repair method for the a post/sill replacement pm your email and I'll send you the PDF.
Glad I can help! I did have a scan over the aforementioned method, make sure you don't set fire to the foam air dam which sits inside the sill about halfway along the bottom of the door. They're used to suppress nvh so not essential to replace/re-use but most folk don't know they exist.
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Dec 20, 2020 12:09:51 GMT
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Pros and cons of panel replacement?
From a collision repair point of view we would always attempt to repair over replace for the following reasons; Usually less stripping and fitting involved. No replacement panel cost. Reduces need to paint adjacent panels for colour match etc. Cheaper overall.
Things to consider when choosing to repair over replace:
Longevity of repair (more to do with warranty in a commercial setting but you still don't want to be doing this job twice) Parts cost and/or availability. Skill level. Special tools/equipment. Painting requirements (blending adjacent panels for colour and the stripping and re-fitting of those panels facilitate paintwork.
I Hope this helps you consider your options..
With regards to your van and considering the above, I would opt to replace;
Your repair panel is likely to be cheap.
It is also likely to be a complete sill front section (as opposed to an arch repair for example where you only get the few inches around the bit that usually rusts!)
With a sill being a relatively small panel it doesn't make sense to section in a part of it as you will end up with a disproportionate amount of welded join. The same applies to patching the rusty spots/edges.
Entire replacement will leave the visible area free of filler thus minimising your paint prep.
It will also allow access to the inner sill allowing you to deal with the corrosion on that too. (If the outer is rusty then the inner probably is too)
The only drawback would be some additional strip and fit work to remove the wing (which probably requires the removal of the headlamp and bumper) and the removal of the door. Most modern VAG stuff has split hinges so you can drop the door on and off without adjusting it's position. This helps when gapping the sill to the door.
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Last Edit: Dec 20, 2020 16:10:45 GMT by killerkerry89: Edited for clarity and relevance to the OP.
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Jul 30, 2020 21:09:05 GMT
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I was thinking it may be along those lines. I have seen perfectly repairable cars get total lossed because someone died in the incident.
Many would be surprised to know that a lot is down to the engineer's discretion so it could be all sorts of reasons. I had a guy collect his salvage retained B-class the other day tell me it was deemed cat N despite needing a new quarter and a tug on the jig. Monocoque damage = cat S for structural? Apparently not.
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Sept 30, 2019 22:28:02 GMT
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Hi saxoman. As it happens I have just moved back to England after two years in Dublin and I'm in the process of registering my daily for use over here. My understanding is: Registering with HMRC is only to make sure any duties have been paid prior to registration. I filled out my NoVA this evening and it brought me to a confirmation page staying the amount of vat due. (Nothing in case you were wondering) The registration with the DVLA is an entirely separate process. Go to www.gov.uk/dvlaforms and request a 'Used vehicle import pack'. It gets sent out in the post for you to fill out and return. I only set up a government gateway ID to fill out my NoVA but once done it is actually very useful. I found out that I'm owed over 600 quid in overpaid tax that I would never have known about if I hadn't set it up! What are you bringing in to the country anyway? Ireland don't salt their roads so hopefully it's a fairly rust free example. Best of luck! Edit* I too would get in before Brexit makes things more difficult for you.
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Jun 26, 2019 22:35:58 GMT
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Hi Slacker
She has turned into your path based on the damage in the thumbnails at the bottom of your screengrab.
Does the pic you posted show her actual road position or was this taken after she pulled over?
You could argue (industrial estate or not) that she was driving slowly at the kerbside and that you made an safe overtake. She crossed your path because she didn't check her mirror and/or blind spot. The damage to her fiesta is clearly rear to front in direction, which is probably the only thing going against you as she may try to twist it into you making an unsafe overtake/misjudged distance etc.
Have you checked the adjacent buildings for CCTV cameras? Do you have a dashcam? How long between impact and getting out the car with her phone in hand? Was she on a call when she got out?
You are correct in ballparking the cost for her car at 2500 quid or so and she ain't likely to stump that up on a retail body repair! My experience is 9 out of 10 customers haven't a breeze at what it costs to do bodywork properly so she'll get a price off a bodyshop after a few days and poo her pants, then put a claim in against you retrospectively.
As the others have said, curtail the above and strike while the iron is hot. The offer of settling outside insurance straight off the bat is a dead giveaway that she knows she's in the wrong.
Make sure you check out the above quickly to stay as watertight as possible.
Remember - this isn't your fault and you shouldn't be left out of pocket for it. Get your claim in and squeeze for a courtesy car because your own is no longer roadworthy. Don't let anyone bully you into giving up the Arosa if you don't want to, the car is yours and you have the right to retain salvage.
Best of luck 👍
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I was only talking to my boss today about UK/Irish retros. He reckons that the UK cars rot MUCH faster than Irish cars, even in Dublin on the coast. His 1996 E-Class Cabrio is an extremely clean car and has been in Ireland for the last 16 years or so and outside for most of that. Compared to his (admittedly older) 89 E coupe, the difference is unbelievable. holes in the A posts, inner wings, frilly valances and bonnet edges etc. It's really in poor nick. He puts it down to being a much more recent import.
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The thinking mans 6x9.
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Mar 14, 2019 13:57:28 GMT
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Well, I could of course be wrong..
My information comes from prior experience. Around 2 years ago a fella dragged his car across the corner of my car in circumstances not dissimilar to the OP. He left a note and I was speaking to him with a view to avoiding the insurance. I gave him the estimate and he dropped off the radar for a week. I rang my local police station to see what my legal status was and they advised that whether intentional or not, if he refuses to cough up or provide insurance details then it becomes a criminal matter. I may be recalling it incorrectly but I'm reasonably sure criminal damage was the term used.
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Mar 12, 2019 22:56:56 GMT
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Minor bump.. Well, no update as yet. I have been looking for the fella. The car's turned up parked around the corner, but I would really like to talk to him. I appreciate he has damage he may not have known about (If his wife did it) and would really like to give him one last chance to come clean before going to insurance. Idiot or not, he is a neighbour and it turns out we both have children that play together. I'm going to try and get his address tomorrow. Thank you for the advice all. I will keep you posted! I would expect that he has come to the conclusion of everyone one this thread and realised that he (or at least the driver of his car) is at fault and is now avoiding you! Definitely avoiding falling out with this guy if you can. Especially if he's a neighbour and even more so if you're likely to bump into him due to the kids activities and the like.. However, do keep in mind that if he (or the driver) has caused damage and refuses to admit/rectify it then it is technically criminal damage and you are well within your rights to call the police if he isn't forthcoming. You could also contact your own insurance company with the reg of his car and explain the situation. They can raise a third party claim against him on your behalf and will contact his insurer through the motor insurance database. If he is going out of his way to avoid you then I would strike while the iron is hot and get on to your insurer to make the first move. If you still have the note he left, keep it and the photos as you've posted. If you don't want to give him both barrels from the off, I would suggest you leave him a note under the wiper as a gente reminder that you aren't going away. Use your gut though, we're all people at the end of the day.
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Have you had any breakthrough with this Lusciousthelock?
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