stealthstylz
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Apr 25, 2024 19:11:07 GMT
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I've not done lots of drag racing but I've gone faster than most. I went from running a fastest of 11.7 about 10 years ago to jumping in works Mustang and running 7.0 at 197mph with literally no test runs or check out passes or anything. Only people I've ever found that think driving a drag car is hard is drag racers. We build tons and tons of drag racing engines, including one for (what was, for a long time) the fastest Outlaw Anglia in the world and the owner/driver of that barely used it because it was boring. I can see the fun of the set up and trying to make the car faster, but the driving bit is dull.
I didn't realise you were planning on racing it competitively, thought it was just for seeing how fast you could go in a Elan. Obviously RT counts in a race.
To me it just seems like a whole lot of effort and cost to stick a big concrete track down, have it ground etc when the "prep" isn't a one time thing. You'd have to prep it every time wanted to use it which just seems like a massive ball ache, plus the safety aspect of doing full chat launches on your own.
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stealthstylz
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Apr 24, 2024 20:03:32 GMT
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Sorry to be a negative nelly but it seems like a lot of effort for something that doesn't seem like it'd be of much benefit from a racing standpoint. Drag racing is literally the easiest Motorsport in the world, by an absolute mile, from a "racing from point A to point B" drivers perspective. Slowly roll up till top yellow lights, creep till 2nd yellow lights, wait for green, go. Reaction time doesn't affect ET so you can just go when you want.
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stealthstylz
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Austin Seven Special Reliantstealthstylz
@stealthstylz
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Apr 21, 2024 16:10:46 GMT
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I love the Reliant engines, really lovely little things.
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stealthstylz
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Odd thing to mention when other than the engine there isn't any information about the car in the advert.
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stealthstylz
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Apr 20, 2024 18:46:10 GMT
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I wouldn't run a M113 on LPG, done quite a few rebuilds of them on gas and it doesn't do well for them, same as most "modern" engine designs. On petrol they're solid engines though.
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stealthstylz
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Apr 15, 2024 17:25:43 GMT
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I'm having a hiatus from modifying cars I think. I bought a load of bits to do daft stuff with the Carlton for the Weekender, but I think because of the weather I've got absolutely no motivation to do any of it. I'm gonna spend the rest of the year sorting out the front garden and building a great big shed in the back garden instead so my wife and kids can have some space for their job/hobbies, which means all the stuff related to that can move out of the house.
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stealthstylz
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Apr 15, 2024 12:06:40 GMT
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I think the positive to take from this is at least the guy has people who know what they're looking at, and have taken the car off the road before it did the old metal to tarmac nosedive as the shocks snapped.
How close is the cross member to the sump? Can't tell in the pics but it almost looks like they've mounted the whole lot too low compared to the chassis.
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stealthstylz
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Apr 13, 2024 17:56:02 GMT
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stealthstylz
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Apr 10, 2024 22:14:31 GMT
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That oil pump looks well past the newness wearing off stage. Did you check for side to side play of the shafts in the housings?
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stealthstylz
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I see that you wrote "I believe the bearings are bimetallic (ali on steel) so there should be no copper to find or see in the oil". I have never heard of this as I believe bearing shells are a steel backing with a copper layer then a coating of (grey) white metal or "bearing" metal (which is a lead/tin etc alloy). Hence any copper in the oil indicates that the bearing metal has worn away. It depends on what's in it basically. A lot of OEM's use copper/bronze layers still, but some don't,and most aftermarket bearings don't. Or they use copper in one half and not in the other.
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stealthstylz
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Shame about the rust-buster, though talking of flash rusting I had a customer that really insisted that I must talk to him about his shiny new aluminium con rod measurements just after I'd steam cleaned his shiny new freshly machined block, but before I had chance to dry it off, despite my protestations that he should wait 10 minutes for me to get it dry and stop it going rusty. He's now very sad that his shiny new freshly machined block is a lovely not very shiny light brown colour and that unless he pays for me to freshly machine his freshly machined block that's the way it's going to stay.
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stealthstylz
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As above - fine alloy glitter is usually something catching a housing. Timing chains catching something usually cause glitter that looks like actual glitter. Bearing damage is generally a bit chunkier like swarf. Only other thing that causes fine glitter is when it's wearing the thrust bearings away, but it's not very common.
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stealthstylz
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I do love the later trucks, mainly because of Cannonball's in Hot Rod.
The early ones are ugly but cool. Almost look like a COE that's been stretched into a wormhole.
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stealthstylz
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It's the only way meets like this are gonna keep going now. Keeping the idiots away is difficult though.
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stealthstylz
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I'm not gonna sleep now, 2nd one was easy but can't think what the first one is.
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stealthstylz
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I etch them myself, but when I was bored I actually did a test of the "pop marking can distort a con rod" thing a few years ago, and the forces needed to actually distort the cap were ridiculous, more or less swinging a standard hammer as hard as I could.
Also I've had to rebuild 2 engines that had oil starvation on one bearing due to plastigauge partially blocking the oil hole. It "should" dissolve in warm oil, but apparently sometimes it doesn't dissolve fast enough.
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stealthstylz
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You can do the rods 2 at a time (1 and 4, 2 and 3), just mark the caps for number and direction before removal, and do the removal at BDC so you can push the rod up away from the crank and check the upper halves, as they are the loaded side and tend to get damaged first.
Mains you'll only easily be able to see the cap side. Make sure the caps are on the right way round and mark them for number and direction Unless it's only there already. Unless there is obvious damage I wouldn't bother rolling the block halves out as it's more common for people to damage the bearings trying to get them back in.
I wouldn't bother with plastigauge either, as it won't be easy to clean it out.
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stealthstylz
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Motobüro open day pics.stealthstylz
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Mar 31, 2024 21:10:16 GMT
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Didn't know this was on. Looks like a good turnout.
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stealthstylz
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Mar 30, 2024 21:37:57 GMT
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That's a lot better effort than that other TV build of a Pop. Shame some of it isn't up to scratch, but seeing what comes through work from professionals/experts it doesn't suprise me as there are a lot of Butch Cassidy's in the scene.
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